No matter which Moroccan city you head to, you are bound to be met by magical beauty. While Morocco is part of the African continent, it is not like the rest of Africa, nor is it typical of the Mediterranean that lies to its north. Morocco remains a transit point between Africa and Europe.
Morocco’s connection to Europe lies in the Straits of Gibraltar. The Moroccan city of Tangiers looks over these straits and is the closest city to Europe on the whole continent of Africa. Until 1956, this city had a special international status and was managed by representatives from various nations present in the city. At that time, the language spoken in Tangiers was Spanish. Over the years, some of the strength of Spanish has waned, but it is still a fact that the well-educated of Tangiers speak not only Arabic and French, but also Spanish. So there really are three languages spoken in Tangiers!
As it spread successfully through North Africa, Islam was stopped from heading north only by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. One Muslim commander, Uqba ibn Nafi, rode his horse up to chest-high waters and said, “God, had you not placed this sea before me, I would make sure your name was known on the other sides of these waters.” It was Uqba ibn Nafi who arrived in Morocco in 686, bringing Islam with him. And later, it was one of Musa ibn Nusayr’s commanders, Tariq ibn Ziyad, who came to Morocco and crossed the Straits of Gibraltar, entering Spanish lands and setting the foundation for the Andalusian Islamic state, which would then last for another eight centuries.
Charming Tetouan
One city near Tangiers which is not well known, but which deserves a visit, is the small city of Tétouan. Tétouan lies near Tangiers and gives visitors the opportunity to see classical Moroccan homes with spacious courtyards. We toured one of these historic homes and saw rooms which surrounded a courtyard with a constantly running fountain in the middle. Though these sorts of fountains with running water are found in nearly all the old homes in this old city, no one quite knows what the source of the water is. The source of the water system for the city was never a known bit of information, as people wanted to prevent city enemies from trying to poison the city’s water. And so the real truth of the matter went to the grave with the architects of these fountains and homes, and still, no one in Tétouan knows. And yet, for centuries now, the water has flowed uninterrupted from the beautiful old fountains of the city.
The tomb of King Hasan II in Rabat
Another detail that strikes the eye in the old homes of Tétouan is the gorgeous tiling on the walls. Most of the homes here are built so that the rooms on the first floor are meant for hosting guests, while the second floor is where the bedrooms are. The inner courtyards are meant for relaxation, while the light that flows through the second floor opening for the courtyard is used to illuminate the home. It is important to note that Tétouan is a city that people still reside in.
It is also a city that boasts a wide variety of handicrafts: plasterwork, tiling, handiwork and fabrics. You will see many examples of beautiful plasterwork on the walls and ceilings of homes in Morocco. It is said that truly talented plasterers would make only about 20 centimeters of headway per day on their plasterwork if they really were trying to turn out a memorable masterpiece. Of course, you really only appreciate how difficult this job must have been when you see the work up close.
The shore of the Atlantic Ocean, Tangiers
Another painstaking handicraft is the tiling you will see in Morocco. The tiles here have been baked, painted and then arranged into stunning designs.
Another interesting aspect of a city such as Tétouan, which despite its touristic attractions has not lost its traditional way of life, is the sheer variety in architectural types; you will see not only Islamic, but also French, Spanish and African traces in the structures here. Since Morocco gained its independence, no more colonial powers rule here, though there are some small spots in the country under Spanish rule. One of these is the small city of Ceuta, which lies on the Mediterranean and where you will notice that Spanish is being spoken. Another such city is the Spanish-run city of Melilla.
The marriage festival
If you should happen to visit Morocco in the months of September-October, you might encounter an interesting festival in the city of Marrakech: the marriage festival. Once a year, all males and females wishing to get married gather in Marrakech to find their future spouses. This is a festival of selecting and being selected, and it involved lots of music and dancing. Actually, this whole tradition is based on a Moroccan legend about a young man and woman, Isli and Tisli, who loved each other, but whose families would not allow them to marry. The tears that flowed as a result of this family ban formed a river, and nowadays, this is also one of the reasons that the festival occurs where it does -- the banks of a Marrakech river.
Moroccon men in traditional clothing
The first day of the festival is devoted to the young single men trying to impress the single women on the other side. Bread is baked, lamb is cooked and skills are displayed. The young men and women are dressed traditionally in very different styles and the festivities continue on until the nighttime. When the time finally comes to choose a spouse, decisions are made fast and marriage documents are signed before an audience of curious eyes, with drums beating immediately after the signature part. Henna is applied right there and, according to tradition, brides are hoisted onto horseback and lambs placed in their arms. In these lands, the lamb is seen as a symbol of fruitfulness and abundance. And so this yearly tradition continues, all in the shadow of this ancient legend about the Moroccan lovers Isli and Tisli.
Traditional henna
If you are curious about traditional Moroccan ways and want to enjoy a spot set up specifically for tourists, there are places throughout the city of Marrakech where you can do this. One is “Chez Ali,” where you can have a traditional Moroccan night out. Here you will encounter traditional music groups and tents decorated in authentic traditional Moroccan styles. Sit down for dinner and be treated to a lineup of traditional Moroccan dishes. One of the first things to be placed before you will be the Moroccan soup harira. A dish that might follow would be grilled lamb. And don’t forget the mint tea that will accompany all this. This mint tea is quite famous throughout Morocco, and is wonderful for the digestion. There are special rules that guide its serving and consumption, and Moroccans pay close attention to these. First and foremost, the tea must be poured from up on high, so that the tea froths properly. When you serve a mint tea that is not frothed, guests could be insulted.
After the lamb dish, you will be served couscous, and then the absolutely indispensable Moroccan dish tajin, which is served in a clay oven pot. The dinner will end with the Moroccan sweet pastilla. And then it’s time for the show! The shows that follow these meals will likely give you a chance to see up close the skills Moroccans have with horses. In fact, leaving Chez Ali in Marrakech, your stomach as well as your eyes and ears will all be impressed with the sights, sounds and tastes you have encountered here.
[QUICK FACTS]
Capital: Rabat
Official language: Arabic
Government: Constitutional monarchy
Chief of state: King Mohammed VI
Area: 446,550 square kilometers
Population: 34,859,364 *
Gross domestic product (PPP): $137.9 billion**
Main religions: Islam (98.7 percent), Christianity (1.1 percent), Judaism (0.2 percent)
*July 2009 estimate **2008 estimate
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