Keep the winter chills at bay with a warm cup of sahlep

In days long past now, ice cream sellers and makers in Kahramanmaraş would yell, “There is paşa gum in this, paşa gum, haaa!” The element they were referring to was sahlep roots -- the same sahlep that shepherds tending their flocks on the Ahiri Mountains would gather and the secret ingredient that makes Maraş ice cream so delicious and distinctive.

Sahlep has long been viewed as a source of good health throughout the Maraş region, which is why its use has not been limited to ice cream. Maraş locals mix it with warm milk and put it into yogurt; these were seen as ways of increasing strength and stamina. Those complaining of diarrhea are given sahlep mixed with yogurt. Sailors, miners and soldiers are given sahlep to drink to fortify them for their difficult work.

The roots from which sahlep powder is extracted are from wild orchids native to Anatolia. The roots of these orchids are collected and washed and then boiled for 10 minutes, after which they are dried in the sun. These semi-transparent roots are then pulverized. High-quality Maraş sahlep is known to have a thicker consistency, a more distinguished taste and a powerful aroma. The wild orchids from which sahlep is produced can be found all over Anatolia, from the coastlines of the Aegean and the Mediterranean to the Black Sea shores as well as Central Anatolia. However, it is the orchids that grow on mountains and colder plateaus that are seen as the most valuable and desirable in terms of producing high-quality sahlep powder.

During the Ottoman era, sahlep was mostly consumed in İstanbul. Interestingly, despite İstanbul’s love of sahlep and the sahlep used in Maraş ice cream, the main sales point for sahlep was the town of Bucak in Burdur. For hundreds of years now, all the sahlep collected and gathered from all over Turkey has been brought to Bucak. And from Bucak then, it spreads out across the market. But no one knows quite why it is that Bucak has become the focal point for sahlep. Some say it is because it is near the Toros Mountains, while others maintain that it is because this old town lies on the former Silk Road. Sahlep is not quite as popular as it used to be, but still, there is even a market for fake sahlep. Fake sahlep is made using starch and artificial flavoring, and this is no doubt attractive to some simply because real sahlep powder comes from wild orchids, which are expensive.

A sahlep gourmet

Kanbur is an expert on the preparation of traditional Maraş ice cream. He says this is why he knows so much about sahlep. Kanbur compares his knowledge and the necessity for it to how a great kebab maker would know where all the best meat is to be found. He says an expert in traditional Turkish ice cream is obligated to know a lot about sahlep.

 “There used to be no ateliers. My mother prepared the milk, my father picked out the sahlep and the ice cream would be made at home. I used to watch how my father picked out the sahlep and how he paid attention to the smell. Years later, I headed for the mountains to collect sahlep myself. There is nowhere left in Turkey I haven’t been to yet. I can tell right away where certain sahlep comes from, whether it was from an orchid growing on the plateaus or near a shoreline,” he says.

 These days Kanbur is trying to grow sahlep orchids in a field. He brought a lot of soil from the mountains to the gardens of his factory and then planted orchids here. He has so far, despite a decade of research and development on this front, only been able to produce second-rate sahlep this way. But he is hopeful that, with the help of academics, he will be able to cultivate high-quality orchids for sahlep.

 Kanbur evaluates the quality of sahlep powder using three standards: aroma, thickness and appearance. Quality sahlep has its own particular aroma, and Kanbur buries the sahlep roots he buys for Mado under special red soil in order to protect its flavor. As for thickness, Kanbur tests this by chewing on a bit of orchid root; if it sticks to the roof of his mouth, it means its good quality and will be thick when made into a drink or ice cream. The appearance is another matter altogether: He explains that quality mountain sahlep root is small and round, while sahlep root that comes from more low-lying land is larger and more spread out.

How to drink sahlep:

-You have to add your sahlep powder to boiling, high-quality milk. Later, add cinnamon or ginger powder.

-Both cinnamon and ginger powder go very well with sahlep, and they both aid digestion.

-Kanbur notes that when you take a sip of sahlep, you shouldn’t immediately swallow, but should savor its gentle flavor and warmth.