Historical trail from Edirnekapı to Ayvansaray sheds light on magical corners

For those who adore wandering through the old streets of the city feeling free as a bird, are as curious as cats, flexible with time and who deriive pleasure from greeting those they see on their way through life, the route from Edirnekapı to Ayvansaray is an ideal walking trail. Though this route lies within the old city walls and ramparts, it is a less well-known one. The walk is more than just its historical, religious and cultural dimensions; it is a walk that offers you a glimpse into some real back neighborhoods of İstanbul. Be forewarned, it is not a walk for those who want to go shopping. Let's start.

The first step: Begin your descent from Edirnekapı to Ayvansaray at the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque. It really is a shame if you haven't already seen this mosque, which lies nestled right next to the old walls of Edirnekapı, because, due to restoration efforts, you may not see it for a long time to come. It was damaged in the 1999 earthquake, and no one knows when its restoration will be completed. There is a small section of it set aside for those who insist on saying their prayers here, but for now you'll have to be satisfied with simply taking in the view of this historic mosque from the outside, recalling the great Ottoman Sultan Süleyman, his daughter Mihrimah Sultan and of course the masterful architect Sinan. But never mind, enjoy this for what it is and know that in only a few minutes from now you could be sipping tea in the shade of linden trees.

Second step: Cross the road outside the mosque, walk down the road until you come to a brown street sign indicating a historical spot, turn, and you will arrive at the Kariye Museum. You could head straight for this wonderful spot, or you could stop and talk to some of the women leaning out of their nearby windows for a few minutes. When you have taken in the beauty of this neighborhood, enter the unforgettable museum, a place many locals overlook but which offers up some of the most breathtaking mosaics and frescoes left from the Byzantine era. The neighborhood that surrounds the museum is calm and serene, and there are large trees framing it. Tea comes and goes at the cafes and restaurants immediately above and around the museum, and you can enjoy the scent of linden trees as you relax in the historic atmosphere. But don't forget, we've just begun our walk, so drink your tea and let's keep going.

Third step: Time to head to Tekfur Palace. Follow the road that leads gently uphill, noting the ancient city walls and the flowers peeking through them on your side. There are cats in windows and women sitting on balconies; it's all part of the walk.

A cup of tea from Çakır Ağa

Before you know it, you will find yourself in front of the Çakır Ağa Tea House. You might be tempted to move on, but the atmosphere here is so friendly that the tea may even be on the house. The tables are under grapevines in the shadows of the city walls. What more could you ask for? What's more, one of the cornerstones of this route is only a little ways away, the only palace still standing from the Byzantine era, Tekfur Palace. Built in the 12th century, it was used for emperors' coronation ceremonies. During the 18th century it was used as an atelier for the production of tiles and glass for a while. It is still magnificent, though local folks sit at wooden tables and have picnics in front of it these days. Interestingly, there is a familiar face at this old palace who never seems to leave. It is an older man who, despite never having any customers, insists on setting up shop in front of the palace selling odds and ends he's collected from the trash such as old pens, magazines, thrown away memorabilia and that sort of thing.

 Fourth step: Heading downwards now, continue following the trail of the city walls. The goal now is to reach the İvaz Ağa Mosque, one of Sinan's masterpieces. But as we said before, there is no rush on this route. Feel free to amble, seeing who you meet up with and what you encounter. When you are about one kilometer from the palace, as you pass the local trade high school, you will see an Ottoman era fountain on your right and some religious tombs next to the city wall entrance across from you. Oh yes, we forgot to mention the many holy spots maintained by their keepers that are located throughout this area of the city. I speak with 87-year-old İdris Kosova as he cleans up the entrance to a tomb he takes care of and thus find myself being led to yet another tomb, where on the wall I see the words “The key is in the red house.” The tomb is sparkling clean, so well-swept and well-cared for, with flowers growing all around it. We head to the red house, where in the shadows of the mulberry tree I speak with a smiling woman named Selvi who tells me that, despite the fact that its hidden, people do visit this tomb and that only a few days ago a man from Ankara came to see it, saying he had had a dream about this particular tomb. While I am led towards the İvaz Ağa Mosque by İdris Dede, who seems more like a teenager than an old man, I find myself wondering: Is this really İstanbul?

Fifth step: The final stage of this city walk takes you past the Emir Buhari Tekke (a dervish lodge), which really only re-emerged when the 17 ramshackle homes that had been built atop it were brought down and whose repairs are still continuing. You will also see the Byzantine-era Anemas Prison, a place where aristocrats were locked away near this neighborhood on the shoreline. The dervish lodge's rejuvenation is almost finished, and if you want to stop for a cup of tea during this part of the route you may want to consider visiting the Anemas Cafe. The neighborhood here is crumbling at the edges somewhat, but it is nonetheless clean and has so many interesting tombs and historical sites that you do not want to miss it, no matter what your agenda. Of course, when you make it all the way down here, another route begins, heading up this time through Balat, Fener and Zeyrek. Those with energy should continue their journey.

So who revitalized this route? The mayor of Fatih, Mustafa Demir, has been trying to come up with ways to enliven the area and make it more attractive for both foreign and local tourists. The Ayvansaray Culture and Tourism Route is now considered an ideal alternative walking trail for people interested in these aspects of İstanbul. Restoration efforts are continuing at some of the historic spots on this route, and the local municipality is considering paving the streets with special-colored granite stones after the restorations are completed.