Quirky Kuzguncuk

Situated on İstanbul's Asian shore, Kuzguncuk lies between Paşalimanı and Beylerbeyi, in a green valley. The origins of the name Kuzguncuk are not clear. Some say the original name of the area was Hrisokeramos, meaning “Golden Tiles,” in recognition of a church with gilded roofing tile that was built here during the reign of the Emperor Justinian. Another theory is that the village was once known as Kosintiza (Little Raven) and over time the name morphed into Kuzguncuk. The 17th century Ottoman traveler and writer Evliya Çelebi wrote that the area was named in honor of a holy man known as Kuzgun Baba (Father Raven), who resided here during the rule of Mehmet the Conqueror.

Whatever the history of the village, it has stood as an example of an area where different nationalities and religions can live together in harmony. Here you find an Armenian church sharing a garden with a mosque and a Greek Orthodox church standing side by side with a synagogue. When the Kuzguncuk Mosque was built, the Armenian residents of the area helped with the construction. When the Armenians decided to build their church, the Surp Krikor Lusavoriç, Sultan Abdülaziz donated money for its completion. This tiny hamlet on the shores of the Bosporus has, over the centuries, been a haven of tolerance and respect that continues today.

During Ottoman times, Kuzguncuk residents supported their families mainly through fishing, gardening and handicrafts. The hand-embroidered fabrics produced here were much in demand at the palace. Once the ferry company Şerketi-i Hayriye began regular ferry service to Kuzguncuk in the second half of the 19th century, the area quickly became a favorite daytrip destination for many city residents.

Today, the winding side streets of Kuzguncuk appear often in Turkish television shows. The colorfully painted 19th century wooden houses are used as backdrops to evoke a sense of the “old” İstanbul. In many ways, the feeling of old İstanbul still permeates the village. Artisans have workshops in storefronts all through the tiny valley, and much of their artwork adorns local businesses.

A walking tour through Kuzguncuk is an enjoyable way to spend half a day away from the noise and bustle of more congested parts of town. The easiest way to get to Kuzguncuk is from the Üsküdar ferry terminal. From there it is a five-minute taxi, bus or minibus ride to the stoplight at Kuzguncuk's main street. Just before arriving in Kuzguncuk, on the shores of the Bosporus, is the Fethi Ahmet Paşa Yalı, an 18th century wooden mansion. Also known as the Pink Yalı, this is one of the landmarks of Kuzguncuk and is best seen from one of the occasional ferries that glide into the small boat landing in the village. Built over the water in typical Turkish style, this mansion has 20 rooms that each have their own distinctive decor. This was once the home of an Ottoman ambassador to Paris who was also a son-in-law of Sultan Abdülmecit.

After alighting at the traffic light, you will notice the marble fountain built in 1792 gracing what was once the quay. Walking up the sahil yolu, or shore road, toward the first Bosporus bridge, you will pass the domed Surp Krikor Lusavoriç Armenian Church. Built in 1835, this is still a working church. If the gate to the church is not open, ring the bell and ask the caretaker if you can see the inside. The light, pastel colors make the interior seem much larger than it actually is. Continuing on from the church, you will pass the Uryanızade Mosque, which shares a courtyard with the church next door. Built in 1880, this mosque is noted for its carved wooden minaret.

Turning right at the street the mosque sits on will put you on Yenigün Sokak. This street has several lovingly restored wooden Ottoman houses, each one painted in bright colors. A short walk down Yenigün Sokak will take you to Tufan Sokak. If you turn left on Tufan Sokak and walk to the top of the very steep hill, you will find a wooden door with a cross above it. This is the entrance to the Greek cemetery. If the gate is not open, knock and the caretaker will let you in to wander through the grounds.

From Yenigün Sokak, walk past Tufan Sokak until you come to the main street of Kuzguncuk, İcadiye Caddesi. This tree-lined street is full of barbershops, teahouses, art galleries and tiny cafés. Across the intersection you will see the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Panteleimon. This church was built in the sixth century, during the reign of Emperor Justinian, and is one of the oldest churches in the city that is still in use. It is only open for Sunday services, but sometimes the ayazma, sacred spring, is open during the week.

Continuing up İcadiye Caddesi past the church, turn right onto İcadiye Hamam Sokak. Turn right onto Yakup Sokak, and you will find the Virane Synagogue, a small, yet old place of worship that is still in use.

For those who want a rather rigorous walk, continue uphill on İcadiye Caddesi until you come to Kuzguncuk Dere Sokak on the left. Continue a long block and at the hairpin turn, turn left and enter the Jewish Cemetery. This is one of the oldest cemeteries in İstanbul and has been in use by the Jewish community for almost 500 years.

Returning down İcadiye Caddesi, just before the light on the shore road, is the Ayios Georgios Monastery and Church, built in 1821. Just a few steps past the monastery is the Beth Yaakov Synagogue, built in 1878 to serve the Judeo-Spanish community. Closed except for services and by special arrangement, the interior has an impressive dome, painted with scenes from Israel.

Throughout Kuzguncuk are tiny cafés and miniscule artists' workshops tucked away along side streets. It is worth the time to stroll the quiet streets, admiring the architecture and the view. In quirky Kuzguncuk, you never know what you will find, or how many friends you will run into who also enjoy this little haven in our busy city.