Being vegetarian in Turkey

Despite the popularity of this style of kebab across the country, it is far from the most obvious symbol of the long-standing “fast food” tradition of Turkey. The humble simit, that sesame covered bread ring seen on every street corner and between, would be an equally likely candidate for most popular food. It is also a very good example of everyday foods that meet some of the nutritional needs of a vegetarian.

What does it mean to be vegetarian though? Being a vegetarian is not just about missing animal proteins and eating copious amounts of vegetables. Many people describe themselves as vegetarians, but they may have very different beliefs and eating habits to a fellow vegetarian sitting at the very next table. There have been numerous attempts to qualify and label the type of vegetarian diets that people follow, but at present there are no internationally agreed upon definitions, which makes some sense, given that it is usually personal choice that leads to vegetarian-style dietary restrictions.

General categories of vegetarianism:

Ovo vegetarians do not eat meat, poultry, fish or dairy, but do eat eggs.

Lacto vegetarians do not eat meat, poultry, fish or eggs, but do eat dairy products.

Ovo-lacto vegetarians do not eat meat, poultry or fish, but do eat eggs and dairy products.

Ovo-lacto-pisco vegetarians do not eat meat and poultry, but do eat fish, eggs and dairy.

Vegans do not eat any animal or fish products or derivatives from these foods, which for some means not consuming honey. Veganism usually encompasses more than eating and vegans will not wear leather, wool or silk items. Taking a vegan diet one step further into dietary restriction and, often, nutritional deficiency is the practice of eating only raw fruits and nuts, called a “fruitarian” diet. Beyond this is the realm of “raw foodists,” a dietary world where food is eaten raw or only heated to about 60 degrees Celsius. The idea behind eating unprocessed and unheated food is to maintain as much of the vitamin and mineral content of the food from its natural state. There is a large body of evidence that supports the fact that food cooked and kept at ambient or hot temperatures loses significant quantities of many vitamins. What many of the supporters of eating raw food fail to tell their fellow foodies is that the simple act of peeling or cutting a fruit or vegetable will also reduce the micronutrient content.

Why vegetarians need to mix their proteins

Regardless of the restriction, it is harder for a person to meet their daily nutrient requirements without meat, especially red meat, which is one of the richest sources of heme iron available and a great source of protein. As a general rule, the stricter the diet, the more care a person needs to take to ensure their nutritional status is not compromised.

Eating the right mixture of cereals, grains and legumes ensures that vegetarians meet their protein needs, that they get the right mixture of essential amino acids, the building blocks of protein. There are 10 essential amino acids, that is, they cannot be made within the body, and whilst these are readily available in animal proteins, vegetable proteins are not complete. Each of the main vegetable groups has at least one limiting amino acid:

Protein source Limiting amino acid/s

Wheat lysine

Rice lysine

Legumes/pulses tryptophan or methionine

Maize lysine and tryptophan

A vegetarian who avoids or consumes very little animal protein and replaces this with maize, wheat and rice will become lysine deficient. Adding legumes (e.g., lentils) will resolve the lysine problem but eating lots of legumes and pulses without accompanying starchy grains such as wheat and rice, a common dietary pattern today, results in a lack of tryptophan and methionine.

Back to being vegetarian in Turkey

It is generally easy to get cereals and grains in the form of bread, pasta and rice, with pulses and legumes coming in soups (çorba) with lentils (mercimek) and chickpeas (nohut), olive dishes of dried beans (kuru fasulye) and a myriad of vegetables, broad bean puree (fava), stews, again with chickpeas and dried beans, or spicy köfte of red lentils (ciğ köfte). Hummus (chickpea and tahini puree) and falafel (made from dried broad beans or chickpeas) can be found in the Southeast or restaurants specializing in regional flavors. Snacks and treats are pretty well covered with leblebi (roasted chickpeas), nuts, marzipan (badem ezmesi) and Turkish delight. Not forgetting the cheeses, yoghurt and eggs for breakfast if your vegetarianism allows!

Whoever wrote “You can’t find vegetarian food in Turkey” in that guidebook I picked up when I first traveled to Turkey over a decade ago clearly had not had real experience with Turkish food or understood what vegetarianism means. Now perhaps this would have been true if the guide were to assist with traveling through the Ottoman lands during the empire’s reign, dining with the elite and enjoying meat at the centerpiece of a meal or banquet, but not these days.

Recipes from as late as the 19th century, especially those of the palace kitchen, are laden with meat. Dishes based on vegetables were “seasoned” with meat or meat broth. The zeytinyağlı (olive oil) dishes so popular today, many featuring seasonal legumes and vegetables, are a relatively new addition to the Turkish kitchen, really becoming a part of 20th century cuisine as the meze table developed.

So why are simits such a good food for a vegetarian? Sesame seeds have significant levels of tryptophan, methionine and lysine -- the three main limiting amino acids in vegetable proteins. Good simits do not have a vague smattering of sesame seeds but a reasonable spoonful or two. Coupled with their oil content and the energy from carbohydrates in the bread, all that is needed is a slice of cheese (for the lacto-vegetarian!), a freshly squeezed orange juice and a cucumber from the adjacent street vendor and the average vege will have covered many of their nutrition bases!

Where to eat vegetarian in İstanbul

There are many ways to eat vegetarian in İstanbul and it does not mean visiting specifically vegetarian restaurants, of which there are very few. Many restaurants will have at the least fish choices for the pisco vegetarians, along with a selection of other vegetarian meze options. Of the restaurants that advertise themselves as vegetarian, they are probably better described as “vegetarian friendly,” offering choices that many vegetarians would feel happy with.

Vegetarian-friendly restaurants

La Calle

Jurnal Sokak No. 6

Tünel

(212) 249 5148

Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Monday-Saturday

In the back streets of Tünel, this tiny restaurant has a menu that changes often. Emphasizing fresh and simple foods, a good vegetarian meal including dessert is easy to find.

Nature and Peace

Büyükparmakkapi Sokak No. 21

Beyoğlu

(212) 252 8609

http://www.natureandpeace.com/

Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Nature and Peace has been around for years and has a devoted clientele. It reminds one of a large and steamy kitchen in the middle of winter but is a welcoming place all year round.

Zencefil

Kurabiye Sokak No. 8-10

Beyoğlu

(212) 243 8234

Many of the dishes on offer would be considered suitable for vegetarians. In my experience, service is very slow when busy.

Parsifal

Kurabiye Sokak No. 13

Beyoğlu (Taksim end of İstiklal Caddesi)

(212) 245 2588

www.parsifalde.com

Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Monday-Saturday

Gaining in popularity with locals and visitors alike, you might have to wait a few minutes for a table on busy nights. Vegan friendly.

Saf Kuruçeşme

The only truly raw food / vegan group of restaurants in town belong to the Saf group, found in Tünel (closed for summer), Akatlar and Kuruçeşme.

Tramway Yolu No. 48

Kuruçeşme

(212) 257 0067

http://eng.safrestaurant.com.tr/

Vegan, organic raw food is how Saf describes itself. I will leave it up to you to see what you think.