Probably a long way behind but from the same family of fermented beverages are boza and kefir. While ayran is seen mostly as a drink to accompany meals or a refreshing mouthful on a hot summer's day, boza and kefir are surrounded by nutritional benefits and health claims.
Yoghurt, or yogurt as it is also spelled, results from the bacterial fermentation of milk. While its origins are unclear, it is likely that the first cultured milks appeared by accident after random fermentation from wild bacteria living on animal hides. The word itself derives from the Turkish "yoğurt" and traditional transliteration spells yoghurt. But not only did the Turks provide the world with the term for the sour, thickened milk, but they were probably also responsible for introducing it to European cuisines. Süleyman the Magnificent is said to have sent his doctor to cure the apparently incurable stomach ailment suffered by Francis I in France. The cure was, of course, yoghurt.
Ayran: the perfect beverage
Ayran is a mixture of yoghurt, water and salt. The thickness may vary across Turkey with those down south preferring something a little firmer. Most commercial manufacturers add approximately 1 percent salt -- about 1 gram for every 100 milliliters of liquid. Unsalted versions are available and can be easily prepared at home. Ayran is the perfect accompaniment to kebabs, döner, lahmacun (very thin, flat-style pizza), gözleme (savory flat, phyllo-style pastry) and some pide (thicker-crust-style pizzas) and börek (savory pastry).
The potential health benefits attributed to the bacteria of yoghurt are related to the traditional, spontaneously fermented milks, not those soured with standard bacteria used in industrial production. Ayran purchased in sealed plastic and foil cups are unlikely to provide the sought-after gastrointestinal assistance; any bacteria present will not survive the harsh internal environment of the human body.
Kefir, another fermented milk product, particular to Turkey and other Central Asian countries, is gaining popularity for the same gastrointestinal reasons. As with yoghurt, the Turkish language has provided the world with the name for this tart, sometimes effervescent and thick liquid. Keyif, the Turkish word for "good feeling" has lent itself to the ever-increasingly popular drink.
Commercially produced kefir can be found in specialty shops, as can the starter culture for home cooks. A small jar of what seems to be a slightly lumpy, milky liquid is all that is needed to start a continuous supply of friendly bacteria and yeasts. Kefir aficionados tell of the superior health benefits of this cultured milk over yoghurt. The variety of bugs work to actively colonize the gut; taking over the space in the mucosal wall that are usually crawling with destructive yeasts and bacteria.
One of the benefits of both ayran and kefir is that the process of fermentation sees milk's natural sugar, lactose, broken down, used as food by the bacteria. This makes digestion of both drinks easier than their predecessor, milk. Their other nutritional benefits come from their abundant minerals; calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and vitamins riboflavin, B12, A, K and D.
Boza’s appeal
Boza is another famous and at times infamous beverage known since Ottoman times. Of Central Asian, Tartar origins, the Armenians were the major sellers of the fermented bulgur wheat drink in the 17th century and over 300 shops in Istanbul had their doors open for trade. The predominant brew available at the time was sour and slightly alcoholic and when Sultan Mehmet IV banned alcoholic drinks, the boza shops were shut.
Boza was known throughout the whole of the empire and today it is still popular in Albania, Bulgaria, Romania and other Balkan countries. Variations exist in flavor, sweetness and texture, based partly on the different grains used. Corn, wheat, barley, millet, rice and oats are all described as the basis for the drink. Alcohol contents range from 1-6 percent, with the typical being at the lower end of the scale. Boza is best identified in Istanbul with winter and nostalgic images of boza sellers wandering the streets selling the warming beverage come to Istanbullus' minds. The most well known spot for boza is a stone's throw from Süleymaniye Mosque, at Vefa Bozacısı. The original shop still stands where brothers Haci İbrahim and Haci Sadik established their business in 1876. The original wooden fittings, worn seats and tiled floor show clearly the years of human traffic passing through the doors, to either sit and enjoy a small glass or take away larger quantities for consumption on "cooler" days. The boza at Vefa is sprinkled with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas; the cinnamon a sign of the drinks Ottoman culinary heritage; the leblebi a sign of the Ottomans' firmly held beliefs in balancing food and drink with the body.
Boza's nutritional claims include significant energy (calories/kilojoules), several vitamins and iron, with each small 200-milliliter glass containing about 200kcal/840Kj. Advised for pregnant women to produce strong babies and breastfeeding mothers for abundant breast milk, it is little wonder the janissaries in the Ottoman army of the 17th century were reported to consume the energy dense drink to fortify themselves!
Chemistry from the kitchen
Lactose, a sugar consisting of two smaller sugar units, is naturally found in milk and rarely elsewhere. Owing to this exclusivity, very few microbes are able to digest the sugar and use it for food. Lactic acid bacteria, a group of bugs found in plants and animals, including humans are able to break down lactose to lactic acid. Centuries before the first yoghurt factory, these free living bacteria, by their own accord, set down upon some nomad's milk and fermented it. The process of fermentation, otherwise known as curdling, occurs as the lactic acid builds up and the milk proteins behave differently, they bond with each other in different ways. The result is a delicate solid rather than a smooth fluid. This process is controlled during the yoghurt making process, so that the end product is a soft semi-solid curd. In commercial production, the range of bacteria used is limited, thus the product and its flavor more consistent, but left to culture spontaneous, the flavors reflect the individual bacteria.
[EASY RECIPES]
Ayran
Ingredients: 500 ml reasonably thick yoghurt (at least 4-5 percent fat), 500 ml water, Salt to taste (maximum 1-2 teaspoons), Crushed ice Method: 1. Place yoghurt in a large bowl and add water slowly, whisking to ensure a consistently smooth texture. Alternatively blend with a hand food processor. 2. Add salt to taste, chill and serve over ice. Another refreshing variation on this basic method includes using cucumber juice in place of water.
Kefir
Ingredients: 5 g kefir grains, 500 ml milk Method:1. lace kefir in a sanitized glass container or jar and add milk, mixing by agitating the container. 2. Allow to ferment at room temperature until a smooth, thick consistency develops (12-24 hours). 3. Strain milk into a separate container through a sanitized sieve. 4. Return kefir to sanitized jar and add 500 ml milk to repeat cycle. Notes on making kefir: 1. To make a slightly fizzy kefir, make in a closed container ensuring milk level does not exceed two-thirds full. 2. In warmer climates, the fermentation will proceed more quickly. 3. Kefir can be stored in water for 8-10 days and strained through a sanitized sieve before using. 4. Kefir bought in liquid should be strained before use and will appear as a cluster of white buds resembling cauliflower. 5. A multitude of flavors can be added to kefir; bananas and other fruits for smoothies, honey, jams, syrups.
Boza
Ingredients: 60 g coarse bulgur, 30 g rice, 1.5 liters water, 150g sugar, 5g fresh yeast, Ground cinnamon, Handful roasted chickpeas Method: 1. Wash bulgur and rice thoroughly and place in large pan with water. 2. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer until bulgur and rice well cooked. 3. Push through and sieve back into cleaned pan and add sugar. 4. Bring back to boil and simmer for several minutes. 5. Leave to cool and when body temperature, add yeast mixture, mix and allow to stand for several hours until slightly bubbly. 6. Serve in glasses sprinkled with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas.
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