Walk from Eminönü to the Grand Bazaar (2)

You'll know you're on the correct street when you look to the right and see a store with a large awning that says “Toksöz Ticaret” that sells brooms, mops, doormats, sponges, etc. On the left and at the beginning of the street is a shop selling plastic containers -- disposable and storage containers of every shape and size.

You are now on Uzunçarşı Caddesi in a back part of Eminönü often referred to as Tahtakale. Walk up this street to the end, cross to a narrow alleyway and walk into the Grand Bazaar. Along the way, there are many side streets and “hans” (inns). Be adventurous and check them out -- you may discover some amazing finds.

The first noteworthy store on our walk is a basket store on the left called 3 Er Kardeşler. In fact, they have two stores on this street: This is the first and largest one; the other can be found three doors down. You will find baskets of every shape and size here. These guys are all business, so don't expect them to be overly friendly.

On the right, a little bit up the street, you'll see a hammock shop called Yavuz Hamak. They have hammocks you can hang from trees starting at as little as TL 10. Their hammock chairs average around TL 100, which I am told is cheaper than what hammock chairs cost in the US.

As you continue up the street, keep a look out for the first alley on the right -- it's just a row of toys! If you have children with you, it may be difficult to direct them away from this area: Forewarned is forearmed.

As you meander up the hill, you will see a lot of evil eye stores -- ignore them. As you'll see later, I have a place with amazing prices that you will love.

On the right side of the street, you will see a gem shop called İmran. This store and another one about 100 meters up the street on the left called Özmercan Doğaltaş have stones of all shapes, sizes (really) and levels of roughness -- some straight from the quarry and some polished up. They sell these in various currencies, usually starting with dollars, so be sure to tell them in which currency you want to hear a price when asking. They always have a calculator nearby just for that purpose.

Look left and right in wonder as you continue up the street. You'll see fishing equipment stores and toys. On the left side of the street just after Özmercan, you will see a game shop called Seder Okey. In the window here, you'll see such old standards as Operation (Süper Doktor), three versions of Monopoly in Turkish, Tabu, Backgammon and many designs of chess sets.

Just up the street a few meters on the right is a slipper salesman. I found a nice pair of slippers there for TL 6.

At this point, looking up the street and to the left, you will see a mosque. On the left side of the street, you will see more toy shops, another basket place and, to the right, an umbrella store. On the right, just past the umbrella store, you'll see a sign that says Paşabahçe. This store has a lot of tea glass sets to the right of its door out in the front. Here you can get a set of 12 plain tea glasses for as little as TL 5; the fancier sets of six with gold or silver decorative edges go for around TL 25.

Just across from the glass place, still before the mosque, is an ızgara (grill) and kebab place. I haven't been in, but I have noted it as a place to try later.

As you continue up the street and come to the mosque on your left, you will meet the part of the street that allows vehicles. I suggest walking up the sidewalk on the left side. You'll pass by a couple of plastics stores, a stationary store (kırtasiye), a barber and a backpack store called Dry Çanta (I overheard a clerk telling a woman that his bags were TL 20 and TL 30 for the most part).

As you continue up the street, you will see a VakıfBank on the left and just after that you will come to a cross street -- Vasıf Çınar Caddesi. As you look left down the street, near the beginning, you will see a statue shop decorated with several pirate statues.

Continue up Uzunçarşı Caddesi and scope out both sides of the street. You will see: a sports outfit, nargile shops, mannequin stores, shelving units for sale, hunting and fishing equipment stores, military uniforms and a copper shop (left).

After the copper shop, keep your eyes peeled to the left. Notice that the numbers on the shops are descending and find shop number 126 (a worry beads -- “tespih” -- shop), then 106 -- a shop with many religious items -- and finally, the store we are looking for, number 104: İlyasoğlu Evil Eyes shop. This is the best wholesale evil eye place that I've found in all of Eminönü. The staff is friendly, the stock is varied and the prices are rock-bottom.

Exit the store and turn left, continuing up the hill. On the left is a mini and full-sized sports scarf store that features scarves with many football team emblems for both Turkish teams and foreign teams.

Continuing up the hill again, you'll see a lot of belt buckle stores; outdoor bags of all sizes; chains; belts of suede and leather in all shapes, colors and sizes and leather products, such as bags and wallets -- it's incredible! There is never any pressure to buy here. In fact, unlike the bazaar, I've never seen store owners call out to potential customers here.

At this point, if you are running out of money or need to change money, not to worry. Coming up on your left is an İş Bankası and a change office (döviz). Also here on the left is a Dia market -- the perfect place to pop in and buy a bottle of water.

Continue on this street to the end. Look across the street and up to the right and you will see a very big sign that says “ŞEREF” in very big, red letters. As you cross the street, minding the traffic, aim for the tiny pedestrian road that abuts Şeref. It will bring you directly into the Grand Bazaar.

This road is very narrow and has many stores on the left and right. These stores are more used to foreigners and so prices may be slightly higher than you found at the beginning of our walk. Keep walking until you come to the Grand Bazaar.

As this tour is not a Grand Bazaar tour -- there are plenty of people who give personal shopper tours through the Grand Bazaar -- I will only make two recommendations of places that are close to this entrance.

Walk into the bazaar and walk down about 100 meters, looking to your right. You will see a WC sign that marks the first han off this street. Take a right into the han and go to the courtyard. Here you can have a nice tea and take a bathroom break if needed (all the toilets are à la Turka here); there's also an old working fountain in the courtyard.

After you leave the han, turn right onto the street you were on and keep walking straight. Looking up, you will see a big screen TV in the distance. Walk towards it. Behind the TV a short distance (also above) is a Polis sign with a picture of Atatürk just behind it. Just before the picture is a scarf store on the right called İgüs. They have every color scarf you could imagine made from several materials, including wool, silk, cotton, cashmere, etc. The staff is extremely friendly -- I've been buying scarves from them for more than nine years. In fact, the owner, Şükür, said that if you mention being sent by “Brooks,” he will offer you my discount!

I hope you enjoy this walk as much as I did. It was fun for me to get my shopping done and share my favorite places with you.