Eşrefoğlu Mosque challenges the passage of time

The mosque, built in 1296 during the time of the Eşrefoğlu principality, is considered one of the finest works of Turkish architecture, and justifiably attracts some 200,000 local or foreign tourists every year. Although it was built during the time of principalities in Anatolia, the mosque has all the distinctive characteristics of Seljuk architecture.

Featuring the finest techniques of masonry and woodworking, it is particularly distinguished from other mosques with its wooden portal, the muezzin quarters (mahfil), the pulpit (minber) and rostrum. The snow well located in the middle of the mosque helps to keep wooden elements of the mosque moist and also ensure that people can enjoy a cool atmosphere inside the mosque in summer. This unique place of worship has three doors -- to the west, east and northeast -- 42 wooden poles and 480 ceiling beams.

Nine repairs in seven centuries

İsmail Efe is the long-time imam of this historical mosque and in his spare time he works as a guide for tourists wishing to see the mosque. Every day, hundreds of local or foreign tourists arrive at the mosque, and he gives them tours of the mosque and the complex. The mosque is one of the few works of its period that survived the passage of time. Efe says the first repairs to the mosque were performed in the early 1900s. Noting that the mosque’s architectural characteristics are completely indigenous, he explains: “It is one of the works Turks can boast of, and its originality has been preserved to this date. Only some thin wooden planks on the roof were replaced in 1965, and other than this, no other element was tinkered with.”

Soaked in water for five months before being kiln-dried

Efe explains that the columns and beams of the mosque were made from the cedars found in the foothills of Taurus Mountains. The secret to the high durability of the poles can be found in the process they underwent before being used for construction. The cedar trees, which were usually used in the construction of ships, were cut down and soaked in the water of Lake Beyşehir for several months. They were then kiln-dried for hardening.

A snow well was built in the middle of the mosque to provide the moisture the poles would need. In this way, the wooden poles did not crack or develop fractures, allowing the mosque to have a longer life. Until 1941, the snow well was used for this original purpose. Now, it is closed and instead the poles are treated with certain chemicals once every five years. Its Sufi hermitages, snow well and niche (mihrab) are admired by many who see them.

Its woodwork, masonry, tiles, pen decorations, glazed bricks, sultan and muezzin quarters, recluse cells and defensive tunnels and labyrinths are additional features that make Eşrefoğlu Mosque unique and special. The snow well designed to provide moisture for the wooden poles gives us hints about the technology of the time.

The mosque is also noteworthy for having five facades although all other mosques traditionally have four facades. Efe explains: “At that time, according to the city pan, one of the city’s main roads was passing along the mosque’s fifth facade. The officials of the time decided to adapt the mosque to the plan, and added a fifth facade to the mosque. Thus, it is the only mosque that accommodates all these distinctive features. None of the tiles are integral; we call it mosaic tiling. Four verses from Surah Al Imran were placed on the walls. At the peak of it are the names of the Prophet Muhammad, peace and blessings be upon him, and the Four Caliphs.”

Another special section of the mosque is the Sufi hermitage. “Dervishes used to spend 40 days in these cells and eat only raisins or dates. They would also eat olives and drink water. The number of olives would be 40 on the first day of the ordeal, but would be decreased by one every day. These cells are still found today,” Efe says.