Ankara fatigue? No way -- welcome to Turkey’s bustling capital!

Local transport -- clean, safe, practical

So how do “Ankarites” travel around their city? First, there is the indispensable “dolmuş,” a typically Turkish version of a shared minibus which takes you to almost all the places that might interest you. The local bus network is equally suitable; the average standard fare is currently TL 1.50. The Ankaray (underground) links the overland coach station (AŞTİ) with Kızılay from where you can connect to the suburban Metro. A multiple ride ticket at present (August 2010) sets you back TL 7.50. Then there are the affordable yellow cabs, which hardly exceed TL 15 for quite a distance but more often average TL 8-10 for city center fares. Ankara has many advantages, but a particular one is its compactness, hence walking is indeed an option as long as you have a printout of a Google map, or one obtained from the city’s tourism office.

A bird’s eye perspective

I suggest you make your way to Atakule Tower and take a ride in one of their glass elevators to the observation deck and enjoy the geographic dimension and layout of the city. You will quickly realize that while the city itself is on average 850 meters above sea level, it is surrounded by hills. The view is quite spectacular. The tower is a clearly visible landmark complete with shopping center food court and the tower has its own bar and revolving restaurant, too. Address: Atakule (‘kule’ is the Turkish word for tower), Atakule İş Merkezi, Çankaya.

Bahçelievler

If you want to better understand how Ankarites like to live, why not take a look at a local neighborhood. One of those neighborhoods which merit at least one visit is Bahçelievler, meaning “houses with gardens.” Although most modern houses may no longer have access to a large garden, it is still very green; this part of town is basically a self-contained town in the city complete with its 7. Cadde (7th Avenue), a long promenade of both chain and individual stores but without the downtown hassle. It boasts many restaurants, bars and cafés, too. Then walk along some of the side streets, and you will find that it is truly a leafy suburb, despite the fact that it is in the center of town and encircled by the underground, which runs from Tandoğan to AŞTİ.

High-quality housing

If you wish to stay a while, chances are you will have to rent a flat. Do not heed the advice of so-called “expat real estate agents.” They expect each and every expatriate to earn in the region of TL 6,000 per month or more, and based on this ill-informed assumption, artificially increase apartment prices. I heard of cases where average flats go for TL 2,000 when a “yabancı,” aka foreigner, walks in a real estate agent’s door. When in Rome... you should do it as the Turks do and shop around with normal estate agents, and chances are that similar flats will be on display for much less. By rule of thumb expect to pay around TL 1,000-1,100 for a reasonably central two or small three bedroom flat. Studio flats are still relatively unheard of, so chances are you will have not one but two spare bedrooms for all those weekend visitors from near and far. Choice is plentiful. Desirable areas for foreigners without paying double for the unwanted yabanci privilege are Bahçelievler and Kavaklıdere, where the buildings are less than 50 years old. The closer you get to G.O.P. and Uğur Mumcu Road, the higher the prices. A very up and coming neighborhood is Çukurambar, close to AŞTİ. Nightlife may be limited but all apartments are brand new, often with stunning views. When compared with Bahçelievler, for example, these flats often have a caretaker, security guard, off-street parking, your own generator and water reserve, too. It all depends on your personal preferences.

Where do Ankarites eat out?

Ankara has a reputation for being a gourmet’s delight, perhaps more so than İstanbul, which would under normal circumstances top the list. This is where the presence of thousands of expatriates as well as being the home of the Turkish government comes in handy as entertaining regardless of nationality or political preferences is an art, in Turkey as everywhere else.

My suggestions are more down-to-earth but nevertheless top quality. First, Minna’s Hot Spot Bistro, a 10-minute walk up a hill from the Karum Shopping Center and the Sheraton Hotel. Open from noon until late a Turkish-Lebanese-Italian inspired kitchen paired with good-sized drinks and wine list makes for the perfect stopover or relaxed dinner. Space is limited, so reservations may be a good thing to do. The owner is an expatriate himself, so often you bump into fellow international guests. Luckily though, it has not become an “expat’s enclave,” as Uwe’s place is very popular with Turkish eaters, too. Price level: medium. Address: Minna’s Hot Spot Bistro, Arjantin Cad., Attar Sok., www.minnasbistro.com.

Second, an entire street: Sakarya Caddesi in central Kızılay. I have never counted all the bars and restaurants that compete with each other along that famous “bar sokak” (bar street), but you can choose between more formal fish restaurants or totally informal cafés. Best bet: Try one the first night, another one on the next day, and over time you will find a place that really suits your watering hole preferences. It is where Ankara’s still vibrant “meyhane” culture is very much alive. If you want to feel the pulse of the city and perhaps the nation, come here and if you discreetly listen in on some conversations, then whatever tips you need to know about life in Ankara, be it domestic politics or the price of a pint, will come your way. Price level: cheap to medium.

Third, Ankara’s Jockey Club close to the Bahçelievler metro station. In summer a wonderful garden restaurant and in winter a large indoors venue often with live music. Fabulous food, very attentive service and perfect for families with children. Next door you may offer your children a treat and have them enjoy a 20 minute pony ride for only TL 20. Membership not required. Price level: medium to expensive but still very acceptable. Just ask a cab driver to take you to the security gate of the Jokey Kulübü, then let him continue past the gate through the parking lot to the restaurant. It is housed in the building on the left with the stables at the opposite side.

Where to stay before perhaps becoming a ‘local’

A number of three to four-star hotels are beginning to fill the void between either being too pricey or offering limited amenities only. Two of those very comfortable mid-price establishments are Best Hotel and Class Hotel, both in Kavaklidere, with rates for a single ranging from 70 to 75 euros and doubles from 100 euros. Weekend discounts may be available.

Finally, how to get there -- by coach, train, plane