İstanbul’s Haydarpaşa Gar Lokantası where passengers may become poets

Some would say it is an extension of their living room -- implying that regulars spend a considerable amount of time in there. It is of course important to remind all of us that true enjoyment comes from moderation, and not in overly indulging in life’s pleasures. Once we are on our way, though -- or as in my case, waiting for someone to tell me when the whistle blows -- and as long as we all agree that life’s a journey, regular breaks are nothing to be ashamed of.

Credit where credit is due

This opinion contribution is not to be misunderstood as a “free advertisement” for a specific hospitality business -- far from it. “Haydarpaşa Gar Lokantası” resembles the good old days of traveling by train before airplanes became so much more common and so much more affordable; it reminds us of the need to have a clean and safe place to enjoy a quick or perhaps extended meal or have a drink whilst on a journey; and I have this feeling that somewhere deep down inside all of us are amateur novelists, in our own right. So, where better to “people watch” than in a restaurant catering to travelers from all walks of life and spin our very own imaginary stories, if only for a few minutes, over a freshly brewed cup of delicious Turkish coffee?

My first encounter

I discovered it one day while traveling by train from Ankara to İstanbul, and came back quite regularly. What impressed me most -- besides its grand décor and inviting layout, complete with a back door opening to the Kadıköy harbor and ferryboat basin, and high ceilings making for a very relaxing and airy feel instead of being cramped into a tiny place -- was the mix of customers, and in particular a very friendly, attentive service.

Standing out

It may perhaps not be as “grand” as Le Train Bleu at Paris’s Gare de Lyon, but if you compare it with station restaurants in other European countries, which more often than not are nothing more than cheap eateries, Haydarpaşa’s Gar Lokantası merits a mention in every İstanbul café and restaurant critic’s guide. It does not feature Irish salmon or Iranian caviar on its menu but that is not what today’s time-pressed travelers would ask for, anyway -- or would they? I am a great fan of their traditional Turkish food: diced liver or white cheese as starters, lamb chops or chicken as a main course and perhaps a sweet complete with Turkish coffee before we move on. They open early and breakfast is served, too.

Three generations and going strong

I wanted to inquire about who runs such a marvel in these times, when almost every café and most restaurants look the same, are owned by anonymous chains and leave nothing to the imagination. Speaking of which: is traveling by train not supposed to be part of an imaginary voyage, where one’s own reflections are mirrored in the passing images we see while looking out of the window? And is sitting in a restaurant adjacent to the platform not the best beginning (or continuation) of our journey?

Hence I set off again, back to the Gar Lokantası, and enjoyed the opportunity to meet and talk with Cenk Sözübir, its owner and manager.

The restaurant was first opened by Esat Sözübir in 1963 and remained privately owned ever since; it was subsequently run by Adil and his brother Mansur, and finally by Cenk. It is a rare thing during these days where change has become omnipresent for a Turkish business to be able to stay in the same family for three generations. Additionally, it was not sold to any coffeehouse chain, neither has it been transformed into a “self-service rush hour sandwich shop,” nor has it become just another pizza parlor. Actually, it used to be a cafeteria before the Sözübir family took over in the early 1960s -- a challenging business opportunity for Esat Bey, who used to work for the Turkish State Railways (TCDD) before retiring. From 1998 onwards, Cenk Bey has been at the helm, although initially his father kept a strong presence.

Staff retention is often described as one of the hallmarks of a successful business; once more, Sözübir and his family set examples both for fair treatment and reasonable pay, as he at present not only employs 14 staff but continues to take good care of his team, including some who worked under the guidance of Sözübir’s grandfather -- a truly remarkable if not sensational detail.

Turkey’s (lost) meyhane culture

Up until 15 years or so ago, writers and journalists frequented the place -- not only travelers on their way to board a train. Sözübir notes, “Then air travel replaced train travel,” and things changed, and his clientele changed, too.

He lamented about the loss of Turkey’s glorious “meyhane culture,” which was part and parcel of İstanbul, truly embodied in the Gar Lokantası. Some would go so far as to say it actually helped to define it. Can it be rekindled? Sözübir is optimistic!

Family fortunes versus the family’s future

I asked Sözübir about his own professional future and the future of his restaurant. He replied by saying that what will happen in five to 10 years from now is difficult to estimate and depends on what happens to the “building” as such, and how the local TCDD management plans future train travel once the Marmaray tunnel is opened. A key question will be whether high speed trains continue to pull in and out of Haydarpaşa or are one day diverted to a station close by.

Sözübir -- definitely someone with a literary interest himself -- told me that when running a station restaurant you are exposed to your guest’s emotions perhaps more so than in another establishment, as you witness and perhaps “feel” happiness and sadness at the same time, with regards to arriving passengers meeting family and loved ones, or departing passengers being sad.

Hospitality can be good business and Sözübir definitely likes his profession and his restaurant. He told me that he could very well imagine a similar career for his young daughter.

Modern times

Sözübir said that the advent of high-speed train travel in this country would ultimately benefit his business, as more modern trains may bring more customers to his place, too. Modern trains would help bring passengers back to the railways, as in Turkey most people travel by coach whereas in Europe they travel by train. I asked whether the fact that he offers free wireless has had a measurable impact at this stage and interestingly, he said, “Not yet.”

Any famous guests?

Sözübir commented on my question about the social background of his guests -- there is no class division, unlike airplane travel -- here, everyone is a star! He has had his fair share of famous guests though, too, with Candan Erçetin (singer), Tarık Akan and Kadir İnanır (cinema), Ahmet Çakar (writer, columnist) as only a few of those who have stepped into his restaurant.

What others say

I checked out what other people wrote before me about the Gar Lokantası. I must admit that what I read and heard seems to underline my own evaluation. One of them, Turkey Travel Planner (www.turkeytravelplanner.com), labels the Gar Lokantası as a “classic railroad restaurant, … offering decent traditional Turkish cuisine and drinks at reasonable rates. Clientele in the Gar Lokantası is a coterie of local regulars …, chatting over meze and glasses of rakı. … Women are completely welcome. The waiters take good care of everybody.” I could not agree more!

The smoking ban is strictly enforced in this restaurant and has even increased turnover. It is a place where banker meets baker, civil servant meets curious foreign tourists -- all standing side by side at the bar (unless they opt for a sit-down service) and sharing good times, a drink or two and later on, souvenirs of a great evening which started as nothing more than a trip down memory lane.

Recently, the foyer of the train station became a platform for concerts and exhibitions as part of a series of cultural events -- clearly a sign of that even a “grand old station” can have a “bright new future.”

In a nutshell: Gar Lokantası is a place well worth a visit, regardless of whether you are planning to board a train to Ankara and beyond or simply wish to take in the atmosphere whilst in İstanbul. Getting there is a splendid voyage in itself: As summer is nearly upon us, a ferryboat ride (for example from Beşiktaş or Eminönü) is the most scenic way of getting there -- do not forget that the Gar Lokantası has its very own “public jetty,” so to speak!

Contact details: Tarihi Haydarpaşa Gar, Kafeterya & Restaurant, Kadıköy, İstanbul. Telephone: 0216 337 0979; no Web site as of yet.