Foça, an ode to the Aegean's beauty

Our captain, Abdullah Akyol, is a fisherman. He named his small fishing boat Ağam because that is what people call him. As we pass by İncir Ada, he says: "I bring tourists in the summertime who are on vacation to islands and coves of various sizes. İncir Ada is one of these places. It's quiet during this season, but it's an ideal place for campers during the summer." As we continue our journey, he says he was born in Karşıyaka but hasn't been able to leave Foça since setting foot here. Akyol makes a living by fishing in the winter and guiding tourists in Foça in the summer.

We slowly approach the Siren Rocks. The area around these rocks is listed as a protected area because it is home to the endangered Mediterranean monk seals. According to Homer, Odysseus was impressed by the mysterious whistling sounds that came from these rocks. He made his crew plug their ears with beeswax so that they didn't become mesmerized by its irresistible call. Upon arrival at the Siren Rocks, even if we plug our ears blocking the mysterious sounds, we are enchanted by its beauty. It is worth seeing this piece of art formed by wind and waves.

A general view of Foça’s coast.

Foça is one of the rare coastal areas in the Aegean that has managed to preserve its ancient quality. Located 70 kilometers from İzmir, old Foça leaves an impression on a person instantly. You look at the sea and see the fishing boats in front of you with the blue right behind them and small islands and beautiful coves just beyond them. You look at the land and see narrow stone-paved streets, old homes and wonderful people, recalling a beautiful fishing village. As you walk through the historic streets, the view of children playing in front of old stone homes and elderly people conversing in different corners is relaxing for a body that has become tired of the hustle and bustle of city life.

If you find yourself tired from walking through the narrow streets, then you can take a break at Kokoloz, a cafe that preserves its historic fabric. Kokoloz used to be an olive oil warehouse in the time of the Greeks. The owner of the cafe, Ertan Aksoy, came to Foça from Konya's Karaman district 20 years ago during an archaeological excavation. He says, "I set foot on the legendary 'black rock,' and then I was never able to leave Foça ever again." He married an archaeologist named Esin. You can enjoy a nice traditional breakfast at the olive oil warehouse, which they restored into a cafe, sip on herbal tea collected by Esin and talk about history. One Kokoloz regular is Orhan Gürer, who is a former banker. "I come here after breakfast, drink my coffee and read the newspaper," he says.

Gürer is originally from Bursa, but he has been living in Foça for 27 years. I ask him, "Why did you move here," to which he responds, "I am one of those who set foot on the black rock," and explains his story. "There is a legend in Foça. According to the legend, there was a black rock. Everyone knew about the rock, but no one knew where it was located. If anyone stepped onto this rock accidentally, then that person never wanted to leave Foça. Even if the person had to go somewhere, he would ultimately return and settle in Foça."

Instructor olive house

If you find yourself asking, "How can we come all the way to Foça and not buy olives and olive oil?” then head toward Phokaia Zeytinhome. Sparkling inside bottles, olive oil, one of the most precious items in the Aegean and Mediterranean regions, greets you as soon as you set foot inside the store. Hakan and Selda Barçın, the owners of the store, decided to move from İstanbul to Foça 10 years ago when they were instructors at Bilgi University. You can taste the delicious Aegean wind-scented olives and olive oil and purchase them in specially designed bottles. One does not need to step onto the "black rock" to not want to leave Foça. It is a pleasure to see Foça, which was founded by the sea-loving Phocaeans, and a privilege to experience it.

What to do when you go to old Foça?

Do not have breakfast because an amazing traditional breakfast waits for you at Kokoloz Cafe. After breakfast, you can learn about the historic sites from Ertan, the owner of the cafe. If you have time, take a trip to the Siren Rocks in a small fishing boat.

You can have lunch at Celeb Restoran. Try the seasonal fish and a couple of the 25 appetizers that appeal to you.

As you forget about the stress of the big city while walking through Foça's narrow streets, you can join the elderly people who engage in conversations in front of their historic Greek stone homes. You can sip on special "dibek" coffee at the local coffee shop as the sun sets.