Tastes and names that stand the test of time

And some of these exquisite, unforgettable tastes share something very special in common: Despite the many years that have passed since their inception, they are still produced at the same site by the same family.

Without a doubt, it is no small feat to perpetuate historical tastes in shops that are 30-40 square meters in size and pass on this business from generation to generation. To continue a family occupation through generations, to maintain a shop at the same spot for 100 years, to keep such a business family owned … what many of us may view as impossible is the anchor of these firms that can rightfully boast a “traditional” style and taste.

Would you believe it if we told you there has been a confectionary shop in İstanbul that has stood in the same spot for 233 years? Or that the smell of fresh coffee has permeated the same street for 140 years?

Many years ago, a master in food preparation opened a shop in which to pursue his vocation with love and respect and succeeded in creating a unique taste. And the remarkable thing is, even with years passing and the work passing on to the able hands of the next generation, that taste that we’ve grown accustomed to never changes. These are of incredible value, these tastes that have remained constant and maintained their special place with us from yesterday to today. Members of the third generation are running the small shops their grandfathers established. Some of them have expanded from the same location, and others have expanded their businesses even more, opening up additional branches as well.

When the names of these businesses are mentioned, they invoke a tone of respect, for everyone knows these are the greats, the ones who command a unique and unparalleled taste. Cemilzade, Mehmet Efendi, Güllüoğlu… The tastes that reach back decades, even centuries, but never grow old…

The pearl of Üsküdar, Kanaat Lokantısı

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi A sure stop for a historical taste right in the middle of İstanbul: the Sultanahmet Köftecisi. The shop, opened about a century ago on Divanyolu Street by Mehmet Seracettin Efendi, is accepted by the public as the address for köfte (meatballs). In 100 years, the fare offered here has not lost any of its taste and is today being run by fourth and fifth generation members of Mehmet Seracettin Efendi’s family. This is an entirely family-run business, being run by sons, daughters and their spouses. 0212 513 64 68-513 14 38 Vefa is the spot for boza The most well known spot for the fermented bulgur wheat drink boza is Vefa Bozacısı. The original shop still stands where brothers Haci İbrahim and Haci Sadik established their business in 1876. The boza at Vefa is sprinkled with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas. The cinnamon is a sign of the drinks Ottoman culinary heritage, and the leblebi a sign of the Ottomans’ firmly held beliefs in balancing food and drink with the body. The spot is run by members of the third and fourth generation of the establishment’s founder. 0212 519 49 22 Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Imagine a street that has smelled of the pleasant aroma of coffee for 140 years. Tahmis Street in İstanbul’s historical Eminönü district is a street like that. A coffee shop founded by Mehmet Efendi on this street in 1871 is now being run by the fourth generation of his family.

The Kanaat Restaurant heads up the list of the spots to hit up for delicious Ottoman cuisine. It was first opened in 1933 at the Üsküdar flea market, then moved to a new location near Mihrimah Sultan Mosque. After moving to two more spots near the bazaar and dock in the area, it finally moved in 1955 to its current location. In 1961 it was taken over by brothers Vahdettin, Kenan and Fuat Kargılı, and today is being run by the third generation of the Kargılı family after them. It is known for all of its delicious foods -- meats, rice, vegetables and desserts. 0216 553 37 91-341 54 44

Koska Helvacısı

Founded in 1907 by Hacı Emin Bey of Denizli, this helva shop was run after his death by his son, Adil. Adil Bey went to Damascus during World War I to serve in the Turkish military but continued making sweets there and learned more from the locals. Returning to İstanbul’s Koska, he opened a shop there, which is still open today and has expanded over the past three generations to include innumerous branches. The business is still family run.

Ali Muhittin Hacı Bekir

For 233 years, the Ali Muhittin Hacı Bekir shop has been producing Turkish delight and other sweets with the same great taste. Today run by the fourth generation of Hacı Bekir Efendi’s family, the shop in Bahçekapı has truly outdone itself, becoming a globally known and active brand. 0212 522 85 43

Confectioner Cemilzade

When you talk about sweets, one of the first establishments that comes to mind is Cemilzade. The shop is a candyland that has been run by founder Cemil Bey’s relatives for three generations now. The 130-year-old facility has moved from spot to spot but has maintained its existence during all this time. These days, it’s in the Kadıköy district’s Selamiçeşme and is run by Satvet Cemiloğlu and his wife, Fatma Cemiloğlu. 0216 385 04 23

An İstanbul classic: ‘Kanlıca yogurt’

Can you imagine Turkish cuisine without yogurt? Of course not! Back in the day, the best yogurt in Turkey was produced in Kanlıca. In this quaint district on the Bosphorus, yogurt production has become an occupation of sorts for the locals. Even if it isn’t in itself perpetuating the continuation of yogurt production, for 136 years yogurt has been sold and eaten at the İsmail Ağa Coffeehouse here. The place is run by Mahmut Şevket Bey’s two sons, Gür and Gürbüz Sipahioğlu. 0216 413 44 69

Yanyalı Fehmi Efendi Lokantası

The Yanyalı Fehmi Restaurant has continued to present some of the best examples of Ottoman palace cuisine for 85 years, providing the same quality of service and food for three generations now. Fehmi Efendi opened the restaurant in 1919 along with retired chief palace chef Bololu Hüseyin Efendi and quickly made it famous. Well-known politicians, artists and writers of the period were regulars at the restaurant. Fehmi Efendi took on the last name Sönmezler when the law requiring last names was introduced. Two of his children -- Erdoğan and Engin Sönmezler -- run the restaurant today. 0216 336 33 33-347 29 85

Güllüoğlu is the place for baklava

Mustafa Güllü of the Güllüoğlu family -- which began making baklava in the Gaziantep province in the 1800s -- came to İstanbul in 1949 and opened the first baklava shop with an oven in it in the Karaköy district’s Havyar Han. Members of the same family have opened different branches of the shop with the same name all over and have made a name for themselves with the spectacular, unmatched taste of Güllüoğlu baklava.