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The last village on the Bosphorus: Rumeli Feneri
This is Rumeli Feneri -- the final point at which the Bosporus opens up into the Black Sea. It is also one of Sarıyer’s nine villages. During Turkey’s War of Independence, most of the people living in this village were ethnic Greeks, but today most of the 2,000 or so residents come from the Black Sea provinces of Trabzon and Rize. With the sea only minutes away, locals have made a living out of fishing. Rumeli Feneri’s elderly residents often sit in the shade of a large tree in the center of the village, not unlike İstanbul’s retirees. And homes here carry a definite trace of Black Sea architecture, made predominantly of wood.
The most popular symbol here is the same lighthouse after which the village is named. This lighthouse, which greets ships coming into the Bosporus from the Black Sea, was built in 1856 by the French. Villagers say that at the time the lighthouse was being built, it was destroyed a few times. It was thought that a holy man was buried at this site, and a tomb was first constructed here. Later a tower that stretched 30 meters into the air was built. The Saltuk Baba tomb is now located in the tower structure and is open to visitors.
Dolphins at Rumeli Feneri
Also in this village is the Genoese-built Rumeli Feneri castle, approached by a dirt road. The place where it stands is quite large, but much of what can be seen is simply remains of what was once a large castle that was used to protect İstanbul. While here, look out from the castle’s doors out to sea and listen to the sound of the waves hitting the rocks. Sometimes you may even see dolphins playing in the water here.
Urbanization is slowly creeping in. What was once pure nature is now site to luxurious villas being built along the coast. One sign that the city is spreading into this area is evident in the pools and sports fields to be found behind the gates to these homes.
Continue on through the pine trees, and stop by the village of Marmaracık, where you can enjoy blackberry and rosehip bushes that stretch along the two-kilometer-long road.
Also, having come so far, don’t leave without tasting some fish. Not counting picnic spots that surround the village and castle here, only fish restaurants look out to the water. After all, Black Sea fish is considered by many to be some of the most delicious fish in the world. Some say seas without much salt product delicious fish. This is perhaps why the yield of the Black Sea is so good. It’s wonderful to enjoy the taste of your fresh catch while watching fishermen do their work. Try some hot tea, as well, as no meal is complete without it.
Getting here is very simple. If coming to Rumeli Feneri by car, drive up to Sarıyer and continue in the direction of Rumeli Kavağı. Along the way, you’ll see signs for both Rumeli Feneri and the village of Garipçe. About 10 kilometers later, you’ll reach Rumeli Feneri. Public transportation can also take you all the way here. Buses leave from Sarıyer.
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