Africa’s silent child -- Togo

Togo was first colonized by the Portuguese and then later by the Germans and then the French. This fate of foreign colonization was one shared by Togo’s immediate neighbors, though Ghana, for example, was colonized by the British instead. And as with many nations that were colonized in the past, Togo has had to deal with the difficult aftermath, which has included civil unrest, coups and much chaos.

Togo achieved independence in 1960, though its official language still remains French. In fact, a significant amount of its foreign trade and imports are conducted in French.

The world’s fourth largest producer of phosphate, Togo has a national per capita income of just around $360. Thirty-two percent of its population lives below the poverty level.

In Togo, which has a 56-kilometer coastline along the Atlantic Ocean, fishing is an important means of earning a living. Fishing boats head out early in the morning with their nets and spend a good part of the day waiting for a catch.

Of course, this is not an easy business: The nets that get thrown into the ocean’s waters need at least 14-15 people to pull them in. Sometimes these nets are tied to trees on the shore to prevent them from being pulled out too far by waves. Just pulling nets in from the water takes up to one-and-a-half hours. After the fish are caught, they are smoked and cured before they are sold. This occurs right next to the shoreline where they are caught, generally.

Agriculture is the main source of income in Togo, with 65 percent of the work force working the land. The export of cacao, coffee and cotton make up 40 percent of Togo’s total export profits.

[QUICK FACTS] Capital: Lome Official language: French Government: Republic under transition to multiparty democratic rule President: Faure GNASSINGBE Area: 56,785 square kilometers Population: 6,019,877 * Gross domestic product (PPP) $5.13 billion** Main religions: Christianity (29 percent), Islam (20 percent), indigenous beliefs (51 percent) *July 2009 estimate **2008 estimate

The distance between the Togo-Ghana border and the Togo capital of Lome is very short. Thanks to governmental agreement, citizens of Ghana and Togo have only to show identity cards at the border when crossing from one country to the other. So there is also quite a bit of chaos at the border because of this; visitors back and forth, sellers carrying their wares, shouting, yelling, crowds everywhere.

Lome’s beautiful coast

The population of Lome is around 1,200,000. The coast road is Lome’s most beautiful boulevard. There are beaches, palm trees and, of course, the endless vista of the ocean stretching as far as the eye can see. A statue that stands in the middle of the city commemorates those who died while fighting against the French to declare their independence.

The open city markets you see as you stroll around Lome are quite interesting, the most famous of which is the Apatua market. It features dried fish, fruits, vegetables, clothing, shoes and all sorts of prepared foods. Something you won’t find at this open market, or any like it in Togo, is a scale. Foods are not sold by weight here, but by eye estimation. You can buy your onions or your tomatoes by telling the seller you want a few, or perhaps picking out one of the bags the seller has already prepared.

You can also find roving pharmacies at these open markets: the seller sets up medicines, some of whose use-by dates are already past, and you can find everything from pain killers to ointments here. There are medicines in boxes and medicines without boxes. Of course, the ones without boxes have no information about when they have passed their use-by dates, though this doesn’t keep people from buying them, especially since they are so much cheaper than medicines you might find in a pharmacy.

Other needs can be met at these sorts of open markets; for example, if you have to make a phone call, there is always a spot where you can stop and use the phone, one minute for 50 “cefa,” or West African CFA francs.

In touring Lome, another spot of interest for you might be the open air restaurant set up in the shady grove next to the Ministry of Economy. You can find all sorts of traditional Togolese food here, including “akume,” which is maize that has been ground into flour and mixed with water, served with “sauces” which are actually thick stews.

One of the sights that may surprise you in Togo is the crowds standing around newspaper stands, trying to read the newspapers on foot just standing there. No, nothing has necessarily happened; it is just the crowd trying to get the news.

If you happen to be in Lome during celebrations for the recently renamed “Peace and Compromise Day,” (this used to be the celebration of the anniversary of the rise to power of the previous president, who ruled for 38 years), you will see some amazing sights. There are military parades and official marches, and the current Togolese president, Faure Gnassingbe, comes out to wave to the people of the city.

We note that there are French soldiers watching these ceremonies. We also notice many bearded soldiers marching in the parade and understand that as a bearded man is considered a symbol of strength here, many soldiers let beards grow on their chins. After the military show, dancers take the stage, with lots of color and music and much waving of the Togolese flag, of course.

A Turkish school opened by Turkish entrepreneurs in Togo has its own star and crescent flag waving in front. This Lome school opened up for the 2006-2007 educational year and boasts a wonderful building as its home. It is called the International Burç School. All of the goods with which this school is stocked have been brought in from overseas. And in a very brief time, the school has managed to make a good name for itself in Togo. There are both Turkish and local teachers working here.

Of course, Turkey has not had much of an influence in these lands over the years, which is why the significance of this new Turkish school here is quite something.

37 different tribes

There are 37 different tribes in Togo, and the most well-known of these are the Ewe, Mina and Kabre. Each of these tribes has its own language and distinct culture. Around half of the Togolese population practices local tribal religions.

Another common sight while traveling in Togo is to see youths selling strings of crabs by the side of the road. The price for one small lot of crabs is $1, while a larger string of crabs goes for around $2.

The road that heads from Lome to Togoville is the same road that would take you towards Benin and then Nigeria. The asphalt road ends, and the rest of your journey towards Togoville will take place on a dirt road, ultimately bringing you to this village of around 8,500 people. Togoville was the first spot in Togo to fall under colonization. Before the French arrived, it was the Germans who colonized Togo, arriving in 1850. A large church built by the Germans during the period of German colonization stands at the center of Togoville. In 1985, Pope John Paul II visited this church.

It is said that many of the people who were taken from Togo as slaves were sent to Haiti. Even now in Haiti, there are many people who practice a religion -- Vodou -- with strains left from Togo. In Togoville, local religion is strongly practiced, with sacrifices made to various gods who protect different aspects of life. These sacrifices can be in the form of chickens or goats, most commonly. If you have the chance to witness any of the religious ceremonies that take place in Togoville, you will see lots of dancing and hear much music.