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May 26, 2012
 
 
 
 
 
 

A fairy tale-like neighborhood: Kuzguncuk

25 October 2009 / SEVİM ŞENTÜRK, SAMET ALTINTAŞ ,
Kuzguncuk is a unique, fairy tale-like neighborhood in İstanbul where the scent of honeysuckle and linden fills the air and where a walk down its streets can take you back to a different time.

Time is not spent on routine, daily chores here. People do not rush to get to different places or to finish tasks. Kuzguncuk is a distinguished place on the Anatolian side of the Bosporus that

inherited its name from an individual named Kuzgun Baba, a man who settled in the area during the reign of Fatih Sultan Mehmed, according to the famous traveler Evliya Çelebi. Once a predominantly non-Muslim neighborhood, along with the mosques there still stand churches and synagogues. With the sounds of the call to prayer from mosques combined with the ringing of church bells and the synagogue's hazzan, it is a place dominated by a climate of tolerance.

The neighborhood, which has been a popular set for movies and television series ever since its potential was realized, is visited by many people, but the intrusion of TV crews to shoot television series has not been welcomed by the local community. At one point they even started a protest with the campaign “Kuzguncuk is a neighborhood, not a set.”

 The names of the streets illustrate the beauty of the district. The heartwarming street names such as Akasya (acacia), Ayçiçeği (sunflower), Bahçe (garden), Güzel Bahar (beautiful spring), and Hayırlı (benevolent) add to the area's character, while the Simitçi Tahir, Baba Nakkaş, Aziz Bey and Tenekeci Musa streets await visitors. The names of the shops in Kuzguncuk are as interesting as the names of the streets. Şifalı Şeyler, (healthy things) Hayat Kahvesi (coffee of life), Pita and Tesadüf (coincidence) are only a few examples of the different store names.

 For those who were children in the early 1990s, the name “Perihan Abla” will bring back pleasant memories. While passing by a street named Perihan Abla we, too, were reminded of delightful memories. Walking through Can Yücel Street brings to mind the verses of his poem.

We see that traditional neighborhood life still continues in this area as well. Children are still jumping rope and playing hide-and-seek. Elderly men still meet up coffee shops, and the traces of the television series “Ekmek Teknesi” are visible everywhere.

 Kuzguncuk is a mystical garden, and it feels as if its light comes from somewhere else. We feast our eyes on the Bosporus from under the buttonwood trees. As we contemplate how the sea came into existence, the sky slowly darkens.

 You can almost see the color of the words as you pass in front of the homes. We look at these homes, which are located in the midst of tall apartments and blocks of cement that are everywhere as if they have been painted with brush of an artist. We continue to walk, taking in all the different sounds. We come across a mosque and a church which are located right next to each other. People here live without making those different to them feel alienated. This stage we call life continues on its own course. Aydın Hoca, the imam of Kuzguncuk Mosque, said he wishes other places that lack love also shared this atmosphere of tolerance. The neighborhood's Jewish residents hosted a fast breaking dinner last year during Ramadan. Two years ago one of the Jewish fasting periods corresponded with Ramadan. Members of the three different religions wish each other happy holidays during their respective holy days.

Kuzguncuk is a unique, fairy tale-like neighborhood in İstanbul where the scent of honeysuckle and linden fills the air and where a walk down its streets can take you back to a different time. Time is not spent on routine, daily chores here. People do not rush to get to different places or to finish tasks.

“We had a Jewish neighbor. He would come to the mosque on holy nights. He would sit quietly in the back and listen to the encomiums. Our Christian and Jewish neighbors come out to the window to listen to the call of prayer I recite. Some call to express their appreciation,” Aydın Hoca said.

 

STORES:

Şifalı Şeyler

Kuzguncuk is home to a unique herb store, Şifalı Şeyler. You can find all things natural here, from dried eggplants to various fruit oils. (0216 334 92 17)

Hayat Kahvesi

You can enjoy tea and listen to life's lessons at the former home of Nusret Baba from the show Ekmek Teknesi.

(0216 492 89 25)

Pita

Located within the boundaries of Kuzguncuk, Pita is a decorative place that offers home-style dishes at a time when fast food has invaded every part of our life

 (0216 532 32 15)

Kuğu Kıraathanesi

You may not find Heredot Cevdet from Ekmek Teknesi inside, but you can enjoy a cup of tea as you listen to stories from the elderly men.

Tesadüf

If you're in Kuzguncuk in the early hours of the day and you haven't had any breakfast, don't worry, Gökçe, the cafe's owner, will prepare a delicious breakfast for you. It is a friendly place that makes visitors feel as though they have been there before.

 
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