Keep a sharp eye out for a tourist trap

While the first rule of thumb for any visitor to Turkey may be “engage in major comparison shopping and bargaining,” the second definitely is “pay attention.” The former is the way to go for almost everything from buying an evil eye keychain to purchasing a high-end carpet and can actually be a lot of fun. The latter is closely connected to the first rule and may be more important for the overall comfort of a visitor's stay. Paying attention can both save money and provide a buffer from a world of irritation or frustration.

Taxis are an easy way to get around in a city with which you are unfamiliar, but you may find that you have been riding in a mobile yellow tourist trap. Some first-time tourists may find themselves trapped in an unwanted “scenic tour” from the airport to their hotel.

 Only a few weeks ago, I expected two guests from America. As I was unable to meet them at the airport, I gave them the name, address and phone number of a nearby hotel at which I could meet them and notified the hotel that my friend's taxi driver might call for directions. I also gave my guests general directions, including the fact that my home and the hotel were only two blocks from the rough stone obelisk at the bottom of the Hippodrome and two blocks up the hill from Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Camii, one of the famous mosques in Sultanahmet. The ladies called me from the airport saying they were on their way, so I expected them within half an hour or so. An hour later I grew anxious; the traffic shouldn't have been heavy at that time of day. An hour-and-a-half later, the hotel clerk called to say my friends had arrived and that he had sent the driver down the street to me. Much to my surprise, the driver was asking them for TL 40, almost twice what the trip should cost. He claimed he had been “trying very hard, but this place is hard to find!” Hard to find with specific well-known landmarks and a phone number which he had refused to call? He wasn't much pleased when I handed him TL 25, but I was even less pleased with his attempt to con my friends.

By taking the long way around or pretending to be lost, a taxi driver can add TL 10 to TL 30 to the fare. If you can, “google” a map of the area around your hotel, complete with street names and major landmarks. If you have passed the same landmark several times, it might be time to stop the fellow, get out and walk what is probably about one block to your hotel. Don't bother with a tip.

The legal taxi rate now begins at a base of TL 2.5, with the price for each extra kilometer being TL 1.4. Don't believe a driver who tells you that there is a higher night rate; that no longer exists. Look at the meter as soon as you get into a cab, especially if the driver has just dropped off another fare. If the meter reads higher than 2.5, request that the meter be reset. Be prepared with TL 5 notes and a few lira coins in order to give the exact fare and so avoid any question of getting change. One version of the rip-off is as you are handing the driver a TL 50 bill for a TL 20 fare, he snatches it quickly, “accidentally” drops it into his lap and then looks disgusted. He turns to you and exclaims: "This is only 5 lira! You need to pay more!" And sure enough, he is holding a TL 5 note. One expat warns also to “take care at night when taxi drivers give change in notes. I have been given false money or notes that had parts torn off.” A tourist learned her lesson when she and a friend “paid 20 and got 10 in change, but it was counterfeit and before we realized it, he was gone.”

For all tourists, it's a must-do to sample the wide variety of Turkish cuisine. While most restaurants provide adequate service and palatable food, at times customers pay for more than they expected. When eating out with a large group, insist on individual checks. You can then easily see if you are being charged for something you didn't order or didn't receive. Always read your restaurant check before paying even if you are alone. Compare the charges against the menu prices if you feel uncertain. Carry a pocket calculator and point out any discrepancies. Feel free to complain to the manager or owner, as it may be the waiter who is trying to stiff the customer. Be sure to get a written price list before ordering. Immediately walk out of any restaurant that refuses to give you one as you can be almost certain that you will pay TL 25 for a TL 5 beer.

An absolute necessity for any tourist is the change office, also known as a döviz. If you are strolling around Sultanahmet and need some change, follow these guidelines. Do not go to the change offices on Divan Yolu. A warning specifically about Aydın Döviz on the tramway! They may post one rate of exchange and then give you one that is more to their advantage. One person has reported that the clerk attempted to short her by almost a lira per dollar! But she had paid attention and demanded that she get the posted exchange rate. Look at the posted buy and sell rates for the dollar or euro; here is an opportunity for the wary tourist to practice the rule of comparison shopping. As there is no overall set rate for change offices, the “buy” rates can significantly vary. The change offices near the Spice Market in Eminönü and the Grand Bazaar are fairly reliable, but do avoid the office directly in front of the entrance to the Grand Bazaar as it charges a hefty commission. Always look for a sign indicating whether the change office charges a commission to their benefit, not yours. Again, carry a calculator to figure any commission price into the posted rate. At the Grand Bazaar, turn right before the arched gate and walk two blocks to find three more reliable places to the left. Wherever you change money, always check your receipt against your exchanged money before you leave the counter. These tactics are especially important if you are changing large amounts of money.