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May 26, 2012
 
 
 
 
 
 

Best spots to get great Turkish coffee

Sade Cafe
19 October 2009 / MURAT TOKAY , İSTANBUL
In recent years, many restaurants, cafes and hotels have begun offering their clients coffee made in automatic coffeemakers rather than classic Turkish coffee.
In addition, many international coffee chains have become enormously popular in Turkey, with espresso and filtered coffee gaining more and more devotees.

A group of people who worried that these developments could threaten the tradition of Turkish coffee have formed the Turkish Coffee Culture and Research Association. The association was established one year ago and is headed up by Atom Damalı. Members include important names in the Turkish coffee sector, such as Ahmet Örs, Mehmet Aksel, Merve Gürsel, Osman Serdim, Semir Orcan and Ali Sözmen.

This relatively new association aims to define standards for Turkish coffee and to ensure that this traditional drink achieves the global recognition it deserves. The group has worked to set standards for the ingredients used in making Turkish coffee, as well as for the preparation of this coffee and the way it is served. They also plan to produce documentaries and books dealing with every aspect of Turkish coffee.

 But what is the story behind Turkish coffee? The coffee plant is native to modern-day Ethiopia, and the drink spread to the Arab peninsula in the 11th century, becoming especially popular in Yemen. In the year 1517, the governor of Yemen, Özdemir Paşa, brought some of the coffee that he loved so much to İstanbul. Once here, Turks also embraced coffee, but prepared and drank it in a different way from Arabs, which is how it came to be referred to as “Turkish coffee.” After its arrival in İstanbul, coffee was introduced to the people of the city and the surrounding areas and steadily began to gain popularity. Coffeehouses and coffee culture spread quickly. Coffeehouses became places where books and interesting written pieces could be read every hour of the day and where conversations on poetry and literature could be overheard and participated in. The merchants and sellers who came through İstanbul then carried the popularity of Turkish coffee with them on their travels, bringing it first to Europe and from there to points even further abroad.

In the past, Turkish coffee was generally drunk without sugar. To supply a sweet taste, coffee would generally be offered right before or right after a dessert. These days of course, Turkish coffee is served as either “plain” (meaning no sugar), “orta” (meaning a medium amount of sugar) or “şekerli” (meaning sweet).

Nothing can quite equal the taste and feel of Turkish coffee prepared in a “cezve” (a special long-handled pot for cooking the coffee in) and served up in elegant little coffee cups with lots of foam. It is said that a cup of Turkish coffee provides a reason for conversation and “40 years of memories,” but though the world was introduced to this coffee thanks to the Turks, it appears that Turkey has condemned Turkish coffee to being somewhat forgotten these days. With the rising popularity of coffeemakers and large coffee chains, we thought a list of some spots in İstanbul where you can still get a great cup of Turkish coffee might be in order.

Sip your coffee overlooking an incredible city view: For years now, the famous Pierre Loti Cafe atop Eyüp, looking out on the Golden Horn, has been an important stopping point for those wishing to take a breather from the pace of the city. Climb the many stairs to this cafe from the cemeteries next to the Eyüpsultan Mosque and then find yourself a table from which you can look out on the unforgettable view of the Golden Horn as you stretch out your legs and sip your coffee. Pierre Loti was a famous French writer and Orientalist who lived between 1850 and 1923. He was an officer in the French forces and came to İstanbul for the first time in 1876 and wound up staying for a year. He discovered this little cafe up above Eyüp at that time. The cafe later became known as the Pierre Loti Cafe.

Coffee defined by its consistency: Drinking Turkish coffee at Mandabatmaz is a truly classic Beyoğlu activity. Those who visit this spot become devotees after tasting the coffee for the first time. This little cafe is located on one of the narrow streets off of İstiklal, after you pass the Galatasaray Square. You might have to wait for a place at one of the small tables, especially in the summer months. What makes the Turkish coffee served there so well liked is the drink's consistency, its foam and of course its unparalleled flavor.

A dream of coffee at Çengelköy: The Çınaraltı Coffeehouse is a spot where you can look out on the Bosporus as you sip your Turkish coffee. This cafe is in Üsküdar's Çengelköy neighborhood, and it takes its name from the historic sycamore tree found there. You can find service here from 7 in the morning until midnight. Interestingly, this cafe is also favorite filming spot for popular Turkish television series such as “Süper Baba” and “Çınaraltı.” Tel: (0216) 422 10 36

For just ‘plain’ great coffee: Another incredible Bosporus view is offered up at the Sade (Plain) Cafe in Rumelihisarı. Find traditionally prepared Turkish coffee, cooked over embers as it really should be. You can get a cup of perfectly prepared Turkish coffee here from early in the morning until evening time. The cafe is located in the Oduncubaşı Yalı in Rumelihisar. Tel: (0212) 358 23 24

 
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