 |
Stroll down to the cisterns and see another İstanbul
The cistern in Fatih is completely out in the open, right by the road, and was waiting like a fairytale princess for someone to give it the kiss of life -- as if it were saying, “If only the rubble and junk were cleared out of me so that the workmanship of my columns and the beauty of my structure could emerge.”
Getting married at the Sultan Sarnıç
The cistern, which met the region's water needs during the Byzantine period, was used during other times as a lemon depot, a place for spinning thread and a carpenter's workshop. It is not known why the spot was eventually abandoned entirely. Whatever the case, the abandonment happened, but the days of desolation are now gone. There are road signs indicating its location in Fatih now, which read “Sultan Sarnıç” (Sultan Cistern). Instead of being lost to history, there are now people who set out on the road specifically to travel to this spot.
Our reason is curiosity, but others have more serious intentions. By having a wedding ceremony at the cistern, many enjoy blending history with the present as the columns of the cistern, which have stood erect for thousands of years, stand almost as if witnesses to the union. Sultan Sarnıç manager Lemis Gökçeören says that in addition to weddings, engagement ceremonies and henna parties, major company dinners and Ramadan fast-breaking meals are hosted at the cistern. The Sultan Sarnıç isn't a spot where you stop in for a quick lunch or afternoon tea; if you're coming for an event, you must be able to fill at least half of the 300-person space.
But if you're just interested in seeing the spot, its doors are wide open for those who journey there or chance upon it while making their way through the Şeyh Resmi neighborhood, and you can inquire as to how much of the columns are made of marble and how much of granite. The cistern has slowly begun to make its way onto tourists' must-see lists and has drawn the attention of Turks who set out to visit Fatih Mosque and its surroundings.
Some of the visitors apparently ask such artless questions as “Why haven't you painted the walls?” But the best part, perhaps, about the structure is its silent, powerful historic feel. We asked Gökçeören the cost of a wedding here, but she doesn't want to give any specifics, saying it depends on the menu, the number of people and the season. It is an alcohol-free venue, however.
Sarnıç Restaurant: meals with candlelight and piano music
When you say “cistern,” one of the first things to come to mind for many is the Basilica Cistern. It's one of the can't-miss stops during any İstanbul trip -- but outside of that spot in Sultanahmet, there is another sarnıç that Western European and American tourists are big fans of. At the top of Soğukçeşme Street and right across from the Ayasofya Konukevi, this sarnıç was the discovery of the late Çelik Gülersoy. At some point, it was used as a vehicle repair shop, and afterwards, who knows. Eventually it was filled with stones and rubble until it was cleaned out and converted to a restaurant 23 years ago. It's only open for dinner and is a popular spot with foreign tourists who want to become lost in the darkness of history. The inside is lit by candlelight, and the dark restaurant costs about TL 60-80 per person for a meal. But if you're absolutely fascinated by the structure and aren't too hungry, nobody will stop you from just eating a bowl of soup.
Mustafa Aydın, the head chef at the restaurant, which has served as a set for numerous films and music videos, says some European tourists come to İstanbul for only five days and aren't happy unless they eat at Sarnıç every night. Recently, Aydın says, a tourist arrived at the door with a brochure in hand that was printed 15 years ago, excessively pleased that it still existed. Turks also have a great interest in the spot, particularly after Oct. 15. Every night of the week after 8 p.m., there is live piano music at the restaurant. Kocaeli University fine arts department faculty member Özden Çairli charms dinner guests with a host of Western classics, but also includes in his repertoire a colorful native selection, including songs like “Gülnihal” and “Sarı Gelin.”
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| BERİL DEDEOĞLU |  |
||
| Yemen and beyond | |||
| ABDULLAH BOZKURT |  |
||
| Turkey and Mexico: Distant yet so close | |||
| ABDÜLHAMİT BİLİCİ |  |
||
| Google kidnaps Gül! | |||
| İHSAN YILMAZ |  |
||
| The Egyptian elections, Islam and Islamists | |||
| MARKAR ESAYAN |  |
||
| There is need for a new initiative | |||
| EMRE USLU |  |
||
| Operational errors | |||
| HASAN KANBOLAT |  |
||
| Are Russian tourists being discouraged from visiting Turkey? | |||
| CHARLOTTE MCPHERSON |  |
||
| The modern ‘Great Game’: women’s role and status | |||
| KLAUS JURGENS |  |
||
| Back to the ’80s | |||
| KATHY HAMILTON |  |
||
| Random acts of violence | |||
| MERVE BÜŞRA ÖZTÜRK |  |
||
| Adding insult to injury in Uludere | |||
| NICOLE POPE |  |
||
| Shifting responsibility | |||
| YAVUZ BAYDAR |  |
||
| ‘Errorism’ | |||
| ORHAN MİROĞLU |  |
||
| ‘Strategic vision’ | |||
| ORHAN KEMAL CENGİZ |  |
||
| Turkey through Amnesty International’s eyes | |||
|
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
