Spice hunters search for the best Turkey has to offer

This information is based on the current personal experiences of two spice “anthropologists,” as they describe themselves, and it will be up-to-date until they find better spices elsewhere. Ethné and Philippe are a Canadian couple. In addition to sharing their lives, they also share a business. They define themselves as “spice hunters” and track down the best spices regardless of what it takes.

There is also a story that illustrates how serious they are in their hunt. “We had heard that there was one village in China. In the past there was an excellent pepper that was only for the Chinese emperor. It was a kind of legend. We started asking people. Some said no, some said maybe and some said it was somewhere else. With a jeep, a Chinese interpreter and a Tibetan driver, we looked for it on the Tibetan border for nine days and found a village called nine dragons. It was a small village at the bottom of a valley and was in a very well-protected area. The pepper was really fit for an emperor,” the couple said.

 They track down the spices that they hear are the best. “For instance, we learned that in the place where ancient Troy is located, there is the best oregano. Next year, we are going there to find it. You cannot find such information on the Internet,” they note.

Their love of traveling and food was the starting point for their spice adventures, which are also their job. But at the very beginning, Philippe was a student when they met, and he was working with Ethné's mother. They have known each other for 36 years and married 28 years ago. Before their current job with spices, Philippe used to be a chef. Then they started to run their own business and established a catering company. They have always been extremely interested in spices, Philippe because of his work as a chef and Ethné because she was born in Trinidad, which is famous for its spices.

Spices improve the taste of food

Noting that there are more than 650 kinds of chilies in the world and Mexico alone has more than 400 varieties of the spice, Ethné and Philippe say it is impossible to guess the number of spices that exist in the world. Ethné says even tea leaves can be used to flavor food; spices make food taste better.

 Being “chasseurs d'épices,” or spice hunters, Ethné and Philippe have turned the hunt into a business in Canada. The name of their business is Épices de Cru, which they describe as spices from special places. They collect unique spices from their original places, import them and sell them in their stores, as well as online. They own two stores in Montreal, which, they say, are wonderful places to show the variety of what they have.

 Philippe says their business is to import, to package and to distribute and Ethné elaborates: “For example, we come to Turkey. We find our suppliers and find the best Turkey can offer. Then we take containers filled with spices from Turkey.”

 They import spices from 32 countries. They bought nine tons of black pepper in seven varieties from India last March. Philippe says their business relations with Turkey are new, and this is only their second year buying from Turkey. “We imported 100 kilograms last year, and we have imported one ton this year,” he notes.

 They have traveled to Maraş, Urfa and Kilis in Turkey, apart from İstanbul, and they say they love the well-known Antep pistachios. “We run out of pistachios very fast,” Philippe says.

Three principles

The Canadian spice hunters have three principles in their business. “Everywhere in the world, there are very special and unique spices,” Philippe says explaining the first principle. “For example, the cinnamon we get comes from Sri Lanka from a village that is 200 meters from the sea with a perfect climate and soil, from a family who have been in the business for around 400 years. What people call cinnamon is not real; it is false cinnamon,” he adds.

Selling the spices whole is the second principle of Épices de Cru because “there are so many kinds of fraud in [ground] spices in all countries of the world,” Philippe emphasizes. Discussing spices sold at the well-known Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, Ethné stresses that while the powdered turmeric is more yellow, whole turmeric is orange. “They sell the powder and say it is the same thing. But the powder is not the same color,” she says.

 The third principle is to keep to the original, in other words, to respect the tradition. “When we make a blend, we make sure that we respect the tradition of the country,” Philippe highlights, and Ethné adds, “We are the intermediaries.”

The hunters also describe their job as discovering and explaining spices and recipes to people in the West. They are very particular about finding out the original way of preparing spice blends and recipes by observing people and meeting them in person. In an attempt to respect that authenticity, they do not offer substitutes for ingredients in recipes.

 Stressing that people can be open to authentic recipes from different places if one is determined to explain the recipes, Ethné says: “When you get into this kind of relationship and if you take the time to explain, people are very open. I think very often people do not have time to explain and say people do not understand.”

 They also state that they do their best to respect people's efforts while growing spices. As an example of how hard it is to produce spices of the best quality, Philippe explains how one kind of spice is obtained: “We buy one of our spices from a very famous village, from a family who has a very beautiful traditional farm. They collect 12 tons of pepper and sift it after being dried. Only 300 kilograms remain after the second sifting, which is what we sell. The number one grade is only 52 kilograms out of the 12 tons. The pepper smells of that place.” And Ethné adds, “This is what we do -- find the best.”

One book published, another on its way

The spice experts have also published a book in French. The book covers recipes, photos from their travels and information about spices. Another book, this time smaller and both in English and French, is coming out in October. The book will be sold in a box that has spice mixes from six different regions, including Central Asia and Turkey, and four recipes from each of the regions will be included.

The names of the foods are not translated into English or French. They keep their original names as they are and give the traditional recipes, still respecting their authenticity. The new book also includes travel photos of the couple along with their memoirs. İstanbul Sunday’s Zaman

Ethneé and Philippe are a Canadian couple who define themselves as “spice hunters.” They have tracked down the best spices from all around the world for decades.

Tips from Philippe for picking the best spices

 Choose spices by smell. Flavor is smell.

If you like the smell, you will like the flavor.

 Taste the spice.

 Buy whole spices. Powdered spices are subject to innumerable fraud.

 Grind your whole spices just before  using them. Nothing else will improve     your dishes that much for so little work.

 Buy from a reputable vendor.         Price often reflects quality.

 Store your spices in cool, dry conditions away from light. Metal and dark glass containers are ideal. Do not use plastic bags and containers.

 Buy what you can use in the next year.

 Most important: trust your senses.

A brief list of where to find the best spices

Wormwood in Morocco

Bishop's weed in India

Dry garlic in Iran and the US

Amchur in India

Pomegranate seed in India and Pakistan

Cassia bud in Vietnam

Cinnamon in Sri Lanka

Caraway in Netherlands

Lemongrass in Thailand and Vietnam

Cumin in India

Turmeric in India

Galanga in Thailand and Vietnam

Ginger in Jamaica and China

Mahlab in Turkey

Bergamot in Thailand

Mint in Morocco

Nutmeg in Sri Lanka and Granada

Oregano in Turkey, Greece and Italy

Rosemary in Italy

Sumac in Turkey

Salep in Turkey

Sage in Turkey and Greece

Vanilla in Madagascar, Mexico,

Tahiti and New Guinea