Mari: Golden city of Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is a country enjoying rapid development and growth in Central Asia and a country bordering Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Iran.

Although a large country, the Karakum Desert covers some 80 percent of the land. This is an oil-rich country, but cotton and natural gas are other strategic natural resources. Turkmenistan, which gained its independence in 1991, has a coast on the Caspian Sea. We took the road to get to the historical city of Merv, which once served as the capital of the Great Seljuk Empire. A flight from Ashgabat to Merv costs only $2. We arrived in Merv, (or Mari, as the Turkmen call it now) after a 45-minute flight.

Mari is a new city created by the Russians. It is located in the heart of the Karakum Desert and is home to some 50,000 people. The Turkmen call this city Maru Şahu Cihan -- the sultan of the world. I, however, was impatient to get to the historical city. Only after a short walk later did I finally see the ancient Merv.

Traditional bread was for sale. The locals call it çörek -- and it looks like a kind of donut. Approaching a bakery, I could feel the strong heat coming out of the furnace, a welcome reprieve on a cold day. The bread-maker covers her head to protect her face, with only her eyes uncovered. Twenty-five loaves of bread are cooked in the furnace at the same time and for only $1, you can get 10 loaves.

1) The tomb of Shaikh Yusuf Hamedani  2) The tomb of Sultan Sanjar 3) Map of Turkmenistan 4) Traditional Merv bread.

A bit further down are the tomb of Sultan Sanjar, the Yiğitler and the Kız Castles. Over 1.5 million people used to live in this city. However, they were destroyed during the Mongol invasions; according to historical accounts, the Mongols changed the course of the Murghab River to destroy the city by flooding it. Recent excavations reveal that there is a great civilization underneath; these works confirm the above-mentioned account.

This place used to host a library in the past. A large number of books are now under the earth, but they fall apart as soon as they come into contact with air. The first libraries were built on this soil. Murat, a friend of mine who came to this country as a volunteer teacher, and I are trying to explore Seljuk ruins.

The historical city hosts the graves of two companions of the Prophet Muhammad, which came as a surprise to both of us. His companions came here to spread the word and message of Islam. The graves belong to Hakem al-Gifari and Abu Buraidah Al-Aslami. Abu Buraidah is the first flag-carrier of the Prophet; he held the flag during the grand migration of the Prophet from Mecca to Medina. They came here to promote Islam in these lands and died in the same place. Abu Buraidah is the last companion to die here, with the date of his death being 683.

Our next stop is the tomb of Shaikh Yusuf Hamedani. The late Turgut Özal, Turkey's eighth president, paid a visit to his tomb during a visit to Turkmenistan. Hamedani is the teacher of the prominent Shaikh Ahmad Yesevi. This is why the Turkmen call him the teacher of teachers. The area hosting the tomb was rebuilt by a Turkish firm and a nice mosque was built next to it. President Özal specifically wanted to pay a visit to this tomb during his time in Turkmenistan. The entire city can be seen from atop the mosque's minaret -- the ruins of the city walls and castles are all in view. But the real treasure is what lies below the city.

The tomb of Sultan Sanjar

The tomb of Sultan Sanjar (1085-1157) attracts a great number of visitors. He is the last sultan of the Seljuk Empire. The tomb was restored by Turkey between 2002 and 2004. According to historical narratives, the Mongols tried to destroy his tomb but failed. Their attempt, however, led to the locals transferring it to another place to protect it from further Mongol assaults. Its precise location still remains unknown.

During our return to Mari, we encountered a Turkmen selling cabbage, melons and watermelons. The watermelon he held in his hands weighed about 25 kilograms and sold for no more than $1. The country has vast potential, with much arable land.

Upon our arrival at the Mari Turkmen-Turkish College, we received bread and salt. This combination represents abundance in Turkmenistan.

Murat and I then left Mari and returned to Ashgabat. While in the capital, we paid a visit to the Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque. This house of worship, paid for by people from Anatolia, looks like any large mosque that can be encountered in Turkey. Ninety-eight percent of Turkmenistan is Muslim.

Turkmen girls in traditional clothing

My friend and I also visited Muhammet Çap, a successful Turkish businessman in Ashgabat. He represents Turkey in this country and is involved in the business of construction. He says Turkmenistan has made progress since independence and that the progress is so visible that it is no longer possible to recognize the old look of the country.

From Ashgabat we moved on to Türkmenbaşı. This coastal city is a one-hour flight away. Turkmen President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow is working to turn it into a haven for tourism. In fact, the opening ceremonies were held for three hotels in the Avaza Free Zone by three Turkish companies. The Turkmen president himself attended the opening of the Vatançı Hotel, sponsored by businessman Çap.

A dream city is being built on the coast of the Caspian Sea and a Turkish company is behind it. Five hotels have been built by Turkish companies, which have invested $1 billion so far. The Avaza Tourism Zone will include shopping malls, seven-star hotels, health centers, entertainment centers, villas and sport centers. Investment will near $7 billion when all the construction is complete. Çap, an industrious and determined businessman, has won the trust and love of the Turkmen people. He has done a lot of good and completed many projects in this country. Çap successfully represents Turkey and attracts the admiration and respect of the Turkmen people.

[QUICK FACTS]

Capital: Ashgabat

Official language: Turkmen

Government: Presidential republic

President: Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow

Area: 377,915 square kilometers

Population: 4,884,887* Gross domestic product

(PPP): $29.78 billion**

Main religions: Islam (89 percent), Eastern Orthodox (9 percent)

*July 2009 estimate **2008 estimate