Toronto Multicultural Pastiche

THY's only other direct flights to North America have been to and from New York and Chicago; the new itinerary nips hours off the trans-Atlantic journey, represents a strategic non-European routing and opens up exciting travel ways for both Canadians and the country's 60,000 or so resident Turks. If you are more familiar with the United States, Toronto or even Canada, the US's northern neighbor, is less prominent on tourist memos, and Canadians keep flamboyancy to a minimum. But a spin around Toronto with its contemporary attractions, chic shops, open spaces and inspirational urban beat is an exhilarating travel encounter.

Torontonians are friendly and big-hearted, and the standout characteristic of the city is the ethnic crosscurrents and dozens of bustling cultural neighborhoods that teem with different languages, innovative foods, the cacophony of global music and a meet-and-mix multiplicity that eschews monochrome values. The city's motto is "Diversity Our Strength." Although not recession-proof, decades of tight fiscal discipline have kept banks lending, Toronto houses selling and urban shoppers barely drawing breath.

The inner-city population of about 5 million does not boast the bells and whistles that fuel the momentum of İstanbul's 13 million souls. But the city has established itself as a cultural hothouse and icon of harmonious ethnicity. Almost half the residents are visible and vibrant minorities with no single group dominating. Toronto's inherent tolerance emerged in the 1830s when they granted refuge to slaves from the southern US. Irish immigrants, escaping crop failures and famine, were welcomed in the 1850s, giving Toronto an open-minded sheen and a steady stream of eager workers and patriotic settlers.

Alive with the sound of music, including opera, concerts, rock, pop and ballet, Toronto also has many fringe theaters. A fiercely competitive restaurant scene is constantly being enriched by Toronto's resident newcomers. Torontonians are heavily into splendiferous cocktails with impudent names. In Toronto, known humorously as Hogtown, Toronto the Good or just plain old T.O., urban cafes and restaurants spill out onto the streets. Street food is the rage, and Toronto rivals Turkey for meals on the go. Wraps (dürüm) are everywhere, strutting their convenience and healthy stuff.

There is enough to occupy visitors for at least a week: Theme parks, stunning private gardens and public parks, art galleries, bicycle paths and walking tours are on offer. Being right on Lake Ontario means wildlife and birds for nature lovers. Museums run from the newly modernized Art Gallery of Ontario (www.ago.net) to a footwear, ceramic, Holocaust and a textile museum. There are festivals galore for every nationality and interest group. The city's most unfamiliar, let's say unique, custom is that pedestrians rule the streets and courteous motorists demur even at the busiest junctions.

Most Canadians are sports nuts and baseball, football (North American combat style) and ice hockey are serious spectator sports. Toronto has a remarkable Hockey Hall of Fame (www.hhof.com) that will captivate sports fans.

PATH is 27 kilometers of underground pedestrian walkways connecting shopping malls and office blocks (www.toronto.ca/path). Above ground is an historic distillery district, previously a mini metropolis of growth and grime, now a heritage village with quaint cobbled streets, flowers and slick eateries. Enjoy some lighthearted drama at the Soulpepper Theatre. www.thedistillerydistrict.com

The area where the heart of Little Italy beat in the 1920s families of Portuguese, Vietnamese and Korean descent also enjoys la dolce vita. Toronto has an authentic Chinatown (www.chinatownbia.com) that subtly nudges neighboring Poles, Greeks and the zillion other nationalities who make up Toronto's effusive ethnic brew.

Canada's current government is increasingly tuned to European values and resetting below the border ones with the United States. THY's direct flight promises potential as a strategic economic conduit as well as broadening opportunities for tourism and travel and contemporizing multiculturalism models.

TORONTO HIGHLIGHTS

What to see, where to eat and how to enjoy the city.

The CN Tower: 301 Front Street West, Tel: (416) 86 TOWER, www.cntower.ca

Canada's national tower and city beacon spans breathtaking vistas of Toronto and the lakefront from an altitude of 553 meters, offering brilliant food at the lofty, revolving 360 Restaurant.

Toronto Island & Centreville Amusement Park: Centre Island, Tel: (416) 203 0405, www.centreisland.ca

Coney Island lite! A nostalgic amusement park with a carousel, rollercoaster rides and all the fun of a fair.

St. Lawrence Farmers Market in Old Town Toronto: 91-95 Front St. East, This has been a technicolor fresh-produce market since 1803. Sundays it swaps foodstuffs for antiques. www.stlawrencemarket.com or www.oldtowntoronto1793.com.

Ontario Science Centre: 770 Don Mills Road, Tel: (416) 696 1000, www.ontariosciencecentre.ca

Interactive, hands-on scientific exhibits and “how it works” for tots, teens and grownups.

Royal Ontario Museum: 100 Queen's Park, Tel: (416) 586 8000, www.rom.on.ca

A great attraction that sets a gold standard for museums and exhibitions, featuring natural history, special events and biodiversity that inspires global culture.

TORONTO FACTS:

Toronto Pearson International Airport: http://www.gtaa.com

IATA: YYZ

Air Canada: www.aircanada.com

Turkish Airlines: www.thy.com

Population: 5 million

Climate: cold winters, hot summers, similar to Ankara

Currency: Canadian dollar

TORONTO FESTIVALS

Summer

* Toronto Jazz Festival

* Chinese Lantern Festival (www.chineselanternfestival.com)

* Canadian National Exhibition ('the Ex')

www.theex.com

* Caribana

www.caribanafestival.com

Autumn/Winter

* Royal Agricultural Winter Fair

www.royalfair.org

From sheep to show jumpers, Toronto's premier winter exposition.

* Toronto International Film Festival

www.tiff09.com

Gets classier with celebs every year but has garnered a role as one of the most prestigious film fests in the world.

Walking Tours:

For a cracking voyage of discovery, take a walking tour of Toronto with eccentric urban explorer, actor and historian Bruce Bell. www.brucebelltours.ca

ACCOMMODATION

The Drake Hotel: 1150 Queen Street West, Toronto, Ontario, Tel: 416 531 5042, www.thedrakehotel.ca

From slum dog doss houses to ritzy Bohemian funk hotels, this is the hippest place to stay in Toronto, located in a trend-setting retro district.

The Amsterdam Guest House: 209 Carlton Street, Tel: (416) 921-9797, Fax: (416) 963-9949, lisa_amsterdamhouse@yahoo.ca

Comfortable, centrally located B&B tailor-made for budget conscious visitors.

EATING CHOICES:

**Almost all restaurants are non-smoking.

Alize Restaurant: 2459 Yonge Street (at Erskine Avenue), Toronto, Tel: (416) 487 44 49, www.alizerestaurant.com

Great grub, pizzas and Franco-Italian specialties at affordable prices.

Restaurant Anatolia: 5112 Dundas Street West, Etobicoke, Toronto, Ont., Tel: (416) 207 05 96, www.anatolianrestaurant.net.

Ayşe Hanım serves up a mean börek and this is, regrettably, about the only authentic Turkish restaurant in Toronto.

Bistro 990: 990 Bay Street, Toronto, Tel: 416 921 9990, www.bistro990.ca

Authentic stylish French country cooking in the heart of the city's financial district.

Canoe Restaurant and Bar: 54th Floor, Toronto Dominion Bank Tower, 66 Wellington Street West, Tel: 416 364 0054, www.oliverbonacini.com

If you thought maple syrup was a typical Canadian grub, let Canoe introduce you to artisanal haute cuisine and Canada's little-known raw ingredients. Caribou is superb. Everything about the place is dazzling, including the view.

WEB INFO

www.torontocityguide.com

Comprehensive guide to everything in the city.

www.seetorontonow.com

The most proactive Web site and media center about Toronto in seven languages.

www.toronto.ca

Official city Web site in 23 languages.