Our real aim here is to let readers know about some of the more notable “taste stops” that dot the routes from Edirne to Gaziantep, Izmir to Erzurum and so on. For after all, one of the most frequently heard questions on long road trips is: “where should we stop to eat?” Thus the restaurants and tea gardens that we encounter on these trips are often the places that give us the best chance to rest and stretch our legs for a bit, as well as a chance to taste regional dishes while re-charging our batteries. A great way to really become familiar with all the fantastic taste opportunities out there on the roads of Turkey is to pick yourself up a copy of Mehmet Yaşin's “Lezzet Durakları,” a book that informs readers of 201 different food stops. Amidst all the details and advice proffered up by Yaşin, there are two criteria that take precedence over all others: one is cleanliness and the other is regional specialties. KAYALAR KÖYÜ ADAPAZARIAlaşara Restaurant:
I got the chance to taste two favorite Abkhazian dishes at the Alaşara Restaurant; “halujun” and Circassian chicken. I would describe “halujun” as being a slightly larger version of classic Turkish mantı. But while there are those who eat “halujun” with garlicky yoghurt, there are also those who eat it with jelly or jam! As for the delicious Circassian chicken here, it is flavored with a special spice mixture called “acuka,” made from garlic, coriander and sweet basil. People also add pepper and walnut to this mixture to make it even richer. The chicken is then boiled and shredded and the special sauce is added to it. The Alaşara Restaurant is open seven days a week, from 10.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m.
İNEGÖL BURSABesler İnegöl Köftecisi:
Here is how fourth-generation köfte expert Mesut Besler describes the process that goes into making his family's now famous köfte: “The fat and gristle are removed from the lamb and beef and onions are added to the mixture. After the onions are added, the meat is put into the refrigerator for a couple of days. After it is taken out again, onions are added once more, though this time the onions are shredded and cut even more finely. Also, it's very important that the köfte are cooked at a certain temperature on a fire made from oak and turned frequently as they cook.”
BOZCAADA ÇANAKKALEKaradut:
This restaurant looks out onto the waters of the Aegean from a hill. The owner of Karadut raises the lambs whose meat is used here himself. There are about 85-90 lambs slaughtered per year for the restaurant. The lamb meat is divided into portions of about 200 to 300 grams, and cooked on a low heat in pans. Later the bones are removed and the meat put into an oven. There are also delicious mantı, dolma and other home style dishes served here. Open seven days a week, from 7.00 a.m. in the morning until 2.00 a.m. at night. Credit cards accepted.
BODRUM MUĞLASuzan Teyze'nin Yeri:
Suzan Teyze prepares the food herself here, and she looks quite the part, in her white headscarf. In fact, you might even forget for a moment that you are in a restaurant, thinking instead you are waiting for your mother to bring you some food. There is almost always a wait to find a seat at this little eatery, which has become popular with local merchants as well as tourists curious about home-cooked dishes. So if you are in Bodrum, and are tired of all those fish dishes you have been eating, head over to Suzan Teyze's place; and while you're there, don't forget to try her stuffed squash blossoms!
ANTAKYA HATAYHatay Sultan Sofrası:
All the dishes served at this spot are both delicious and time-consuming to produce. The most popular dish of the region -- “oruk” -- is served here. It is like a slightly different version of the classic Turkish “içli köfte” and is baked in the oven. Here is how Bülent Tenekecioğlu, restaurant manager, describes the process of making oruk: “After the ground beef is sautéed in the pan on a low heat, we add onion, ground pepper, red pepper, walnuts and parsley. As for the outer layer of oruk, we use fine bulgur and red meat whose gristle has been removed. To this mixture we add unground cumin and salt and then knead this all together. The outer layer of oruk should be somewhat like a paste by the time you are finished mixing it and kneading it. We use our fingers to open up the middle of the oruk and place the inside ingredients in. We spread olive oil in a large pan, and, after the opening is closed in the oruk, we line up the oruks and bake them at 200 Celsius in the oven.”
KORKUTELİ ANTALYANur Pastanesi:
There are two things in particular which are famous here: the su böreği with mushrooms and the burnt ice cream. I ate mushroom su böreği for the first time here, and I can truly say that I will want it as a food in my life from now on. As for the burnt ice cream, it is definitely an unforgettable taste and one which might bear promoting abroad!
TİRE İZMİRHacıoğlu Mangal:
The taste of Tire köftes are, of course, legendary. In fact, there are people that travel hundreds of kilometers to get this taste! And perhaps the spot that makes the famous Tire köfte the best is the Hacıoğlu Mangal. The most significant characteristic of this restaurant is that no matter where you are in Turkey, you can place an order over the internet -- at www.tirekofte.com -- and they will get it to you. There are different costs for different orders, but one kilo of köfte is TL 22. You can also get famous Tire products like special jellies, walnuts, sucuk and village-style butter here.
AFYONİkbal:
You absolutely must try the special İkbal sucuk, the bread made with potatoes and yeast, the lokum, and the sugary treats here. There is also the famous İkbal eggplant börek made with pureed eggplant. This börek has very rich ingredients, with ground beef, egg whites, cheese and also grated onions in it. After all the ingredients, including the eggplant, are mixed together and placed in the börek dough, this treat is baked and garnished with slices of tomato and green pepper before being served.
GAZİANTEPCıncık Restaurant:
Antep dishes are featured at this restaurant. Perhaps the most famous dish you could order for yourself here is their “yuvarlama.” This dish includes irmik (farina), ground beef, ground chicken breast, boiled rice, salt, black pepper and eggs. After this mixture is blended well, it is then also kneaded and made into tiny balls by hand before cooking.
BEYPAZARI ANKARATaşmektep Konağı:
One of the most unforgettable dishes you can taste from Beypazarı is this region's meat-filled grape dolma. The dolma grape leaves used here come from the “akpüskül” grape variety, which is a white grape. One feature of this kind of grape vine is that its leaves have almost no veins in them. They're so smooth, they just seem to dissolve in the mouth. When these natural tastes are then combined with the deliciousness of lamb, the result is an unforgettable wrapped grape dolma experience! You can also try the güveç, the tarhana soup, the “höşmerim” (a dessert made from cheese, milk, and sugar) and the special “80 layer” baklava. Open seven days a week, from 8.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.
KAYSERİKaşıkla Mantı:
There are two kinds of mantı made here. There is “yağ mantı” (oil mantı) and Kayseri mantısı. Also, you can find delicious saç kavurma (a kind of sautéed meat), su böreği, eggs with pastırma cooked in ceramic dishes, fish and grilled meats. There are also wonderful homemade desserts, like baklava and ekmek kadayıfı. Open every day of the week from 10.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.
AMASYAAmaseia Mutfağı:
This restaurant is located in one of the oldest villas on the Yeşilırmak coast. You can find regional dishes here that you may not be able to find elsewhere. The menu is filled only with homemade dishes. Look for dishes like toyga soup, broad bean dolma, keşkek (a dish made from ground wheat and meat), okra with meat, mantı and baked white beans. Open every day.
