Shall I go further?

When you mention places like Gaziantep, Antakya, Diyarbakır, Erzurum, Van or Hakkari, it sounds like some f-a-r-a-w-a-y place. It's not so far in distance, but it is like a different world from the urban centers. Locals are not so interested in ancient history.

Eastern Turkey is for those who love ancient civilizations and nature.

Let's imagine you're headed east... Start from Diyarbakır. You can fly and drive.

Day 1: Start in Diyarbakır by seeing the magnificent ancient city walls built from basalt -- a hard, dense, dark volcanic rock. You must see the Ulu Cami (mosque), believed to be one of the oldest mosques in the Islamic world. Stroll around the intricate warren of alleyways and old-fashioned tenement blocks that make up the old city and that contrasts dramatically with the sprawling suburbs of modern apartment blocks and slums to the west. For lunch, try some rich dishes of lamb and cracked wheat.

Mardin is the next stop! A beautiful and ancient town. Along the way, stop at Hasankeyf and explore the village -- the houses cling to the rocks of a gorge above the Tigris River.

Have you heard about the Southeastern Anatolia Project (GAP)? How about the Ilısu dam? Sadly, Hasankeyf is one of the many villages that may disappear under water. So don't wait too long to visit this area. Ruins date back to Roman times. It has some fascinating ancient bridge structures.

You can do all this and reach Mardin by the evening. Try to avoid driving after dark. You never know when a tractor with no lights or an animal may appear out of nowhere. Out of the city limits street lights, petrol stations, etc. are few and far between.

Day 2: Mardin is a great town for those who love to explore... You can walk through the rambling bazaar to Ulu Cami. Yes, there is more than one Ulu Cami in Turkey. You can visit the Kasimiye Medresesi, known for its fine courtyard and arched colonnades. You can also visit an old church, built in the 15th century. Mardin has a castle that overlooks the vast plains of Mesopotamia, stretching all the way to Syria. We are not finished yet: Just situated in the hills east of the town is a monastery. Built in 493, the monastery served as the seat of the Syrian Orthodox Patriarch from the 12th century until the 1920s.

Day 3: A 300-kilometer drive away is Kahta. You may have never heard of this place -- it's your base for going to Nemrut the next day. The pilgrimage city of Urfa is on the way. Take time to explore the -tone covered bazaar, the citadel and pool of Abraham. A small cave nearby is said to be Abraham's birthplace. To see the sunrise at Nemrut, you need to get up early -- 3 a.m. -- and get on the road.

Day 4: Mount Nemrut is the place to be at sunrise. View the tomb of Antiochos I, the ruler of the Commagene Kingdom. By midday, try to reach Halfeti and take a boat trip on the Euphrates: Don't miss Rumkale, an impressive fortress on the riverbanks ("rum" doesn't mean the alcoholic drink, it means Greek and "kale" is castle.) You can imagine the rest... Many battles were fought across this region over the centuries. Every ruler wanted to have control of the Euphrates and Tigris. After the boat trip, drive on to Gaziantep and enjoy the local food and stay the night. It's the best place to buy a kilo of pistachios before boarding the plane home.

Here's a thought. One night Nasreddin Hodja and his wife were lying in bed. His wife said: "Efendi (Sir), can you move a bit?" The hodja got angry with his wife, got out of the bed and went out. He started walking. Early in the morning he met one of his friends. The man asked: "What's the matter, Hodja Efendi? Where are you going so early in the morning?" "Well I really don't know myself," answered the hodja. "My wife wanted me to move a bit and I'm still moving away from her. When you get to the village can you ask my wife if she wants me to go any further?"