İstanbul is situated on two continents: Europe and Asia. Ferryboats are interwoven in the life of the city as they crisscross the Bosporus. Have you ever noticed in the older districts the same trade seems to congregate in the same place? For example, in the Tünel district you can find many shops that sell chandeliers, while in Karaköy you have stores that sell all types of tools and hardware.
On the Asian side, between Üsküdar and Kadıköy, you can get lost in the maze of winding alleys that take you past ancient marble-floored mosques and a few small historic churches with elaborate icons. In the back streets of Kadıköy, you’ll find rows and rows of antique dealers with all kinds of furnishings and accessories that may date back to the Ottoman era -- even some ancient maps and books, if you are interested in that sort of thing.
The Asian shore is the site of lots of activity. People have started jogging along the waterfront in the mornings. Toward evening, watching the sunset is a great pastime for many. One day I took some visitors down to the Üsküdar shore for a stroll. After a while we decided to sit and have tea. Sitting on some benches facing the sea, we watched the ferries and pedestrians pass by. Usually visitors love to munch on simit. At least, mine did. If you have not had one, it is a Turkish version of the pretzel.
We did not engage in much conversation because each person seemed almost hypnotized by the view in every direction. One of my visitors suddenly exclaimed, “What a city of contrasts!” Another friend sat staring back across the Bosporus Strait at the walls of Topkapı Palace and the peninsula of the oldest part of İstanbul. Being a people-watcher, I was noticing the couples around me. The contrast in clothing fascinated me. One young couple wore western style clothes, blue jeans and short sleeve tops. They were embracing. Just a little further down sitting on a bench was another couple. They were a little bit older, but seemed to be in love. They were dressed more conservatively. The man had on dark slacks and a long-sleeve pin-stripped shirt. The woman had on a long dark skirt and a long-sleeved, light-colored blouse and a headscarf. A number of Turkish women dress more modestly for religious reasons.
I couldn’t help but notice another group of people approaching, two women and a man. He had a beard and the women had on long coats and headscarves. They seemed to walk just a couple of paces behind the man. I thought to myself, if I was sitting along the shore at Bebek or Ortaköy, I probably would see some young people in miniskirts and shorts. Not only is the city one of contrasts, but the people and fashion are, too!
Speaking of contrasts: Üsküdar, and Fatih, the latter situated on the European side near Beyazit, are known as two of the most devout communities. In both these districts you will notice many more women wearing very modest attire -- some even totally covered in black. Ortaköy, Ataköy and Erenköy on the Asian side, between Bağdat Street and the seaside, are the more popular jet-setting places. If you have time to explore the different parts of the city, you will notice that in certain districts residents may tend to dress in a particular style.
I receive a number of letters from people who dream about visiting Turkey. Many seem to be young and not always with a lot of qualifications. For most, the best option would be teaching English as a foreign language (EFL).
In contrast to a few years ago, İstanbul is fast becoming an expensive city to live in. Since the pay at language schools in İstanbul ranges from fair to middling, making ends meet can be tough. Also, the way EFL teachers are viewed has changed over the years -- they are now largely viewed as rather expendable and easily replaceable. In some respects, this attitude is justified and pragmatic, as EFL teachers are a transient and, in too many cases, impulsive lot.
Most likely, İstanbul will always remain a city of contrasts. All things considered, I would recommend journeying to İstanbul as soon as you can. Come and wander around. With its amazingly rich cultural heritage, İstanbul stands as a beautiful, fascinating and diverse city at the crossroads of East and West. Although part of your reward may not be monetary, a different sort of reward is here to be had. Come and claim it!
