One of my visitors works on a development project in Central Asia and expressed how beautiful it was here. Mind you, at this point he had only seen the E-5 from the airport toward Silivri around sunset. Coming from a very rural inland setting, he liked seeing the people, the variety of shops, the abundance of goods and the Sea of Marmara.Another friend who had just arrived from England also expressed the same opinion, but from a different perspective. She loved seeing the faces of the people we passed along the way and the colorful fruits and vegetables being sold by vendors along the side of the road.
I asked my friend from Central Asia what it was like where he worked and he began to tell me how underdeveloped it is. He shared how they cross the river on a simple wooden raft. I immediately realized how good and safe life is here compared to other places further east. Yes, seeing young boys and men take a leap off the ferryboat as it is pulling up to the Karaköy dock is unnerving, but I imagine the raft across the river would be even more so.
And then he began to explain about the drinking water and water for bathing. “The river is the source of water for all needs, and villagers fetch water from the river and hurry to and fro with huge buckets hanging from the yoke on their shoulders,” my guest explained.
He described the nearby village and its narrow and winding roads, mainly used by donkey carts and very few vehicles. He said that this is where he used to shop, but now all business is at a standstill due to fighting. Streets were untidy and litter and garbage were weeks old or more. No wonder he was impressed by the drive along the E-5 motorway.
My English guest noted that the passers-by looked weary after a long day. Unlike the town in England she is from, where the people on the streets were scattered, here the crowds were thronging and very intent on getting to their destination.
Both of my guests noticed that in the midst of the heavy traffic, everyone was indifferent to us and not staring. Both guests said that in other places they had traveled they were incommoded by the staring of the crowd -- be it Beijing, Karachi or Delhi. I thought to myself, if we were elsewhere in Turkey or in a tourist area, we too would have received more stares.
Until you come here and see it for yourself, it is hard to comprehend that İstanbul is a city on two continents. Those of us who live here just take it for granted that we may live on the Asian side and travel across the Bosporus to the European side for business or vice-versa.
Stopping at a gasoline station to fill up, my guests noticed the shop next door, which had a beautiful display of various Turkish desserts. I explained the upcoming Muslim holiday, which begins on Sept. 20. They went to take some photos and came back to the car with a box of Turkish delight and some baklava.
Turkey, much like its land, is caught between two worlds. While on the one hand many Turks want to see Turkey be accepted in the European Union, others prefer it does not. In some parts of İstanbul you can see the most fashionable Turks in designer labels strolling around or sitting in modern outdoor cafes, while in others you'll observe just the opposite: tea gardens and middle-aged men sitting around playing backgammon. Chadors, skirts and blue jeans are common.
For centuries great civilizations have influenced this land. İstanbul has a long history -- Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire have come and gone while modern history continues to be made.
As we arrive at our destination, one of my guests comments that it is fascinating to see the mosques' minarets dotting the landscape and modern skyscrapers lighting up the skies.
We all agreed: We love İstanbul in our own way.
Wishing you a safe and happy holiday!
Note: Charlotte McPherson is the author of “Culture Smart: Turkey, 2005.” Please keep your questions and observations coming: I want to ensure this column is a help to you, Today’s Zaman’s readers. Email: c.mcpherson@todayszaman.com
