Dear Charlotte: I've been living in Turkey for a few years, and I really miss having a good soak in the tub. The flat where I live has a serious drain problem, and the landlord refuses to have it repaired because it means having to remove the bathtub to fix the plumbing problem. I have become accustomed to taking baths out of two pails of water: one for washing, one for rinsing. But when I want a change, I go to a Turkish hamam and really enjoy it. Do you think there is any health hazard in doing this? Liz (İstanbul)Dear Liz: Historic Turkish baths can be found as far as Hungary's capital city, Budapest. The Ottoman Turks introduced them to European cities. People have been enjoying these public baths for centuries. I've heard the bath water can be as hot as 44 degrees Celsius. You are probably safe. Enjoy it.
If it is your first visit to a Turkish bath, here are a few tips:
Men and women have separate sections. You will be given the bathing essentials when you begin to undress: a large towel (peştamal), special wooden block shoes and a bowl. You should bring your own soap. In the bathing room, it is very steamy. You sit in front of a traditional water faucet with hot and cold taps and fill your bowl and pour water over yourself. Turks believe that bath water should be running. Some believe sitting in a bathtub of water is unclean. In the steam room where you wash, you can have a pummel and a vigorous massage from a strong-gripped masseuse while lying on a slab of marble that is heated underneath. Everything is marble and hot. The floor in the bath area is heated. Don't forget the göbek taşı -- a marble slab located in the center of the hamam -- is hottest. This is where you lie if you really want to sweat.
The “hamam” is not just a bathhouse; some people still think of it as a social center. If you visit a Turkish bath that is not on the tourist route, you will observe that the more local baths are not just a place to wash but also a place to mingle.
Certainly, during the Ottoman Empire, it was a place for gossip, for women to choose future daughters-in-law and for men to clench business deals.
Here is an account of a couple of friends who visited a Turkish bath when they came to Turkey:
Beth and Alice decided on their last day in Turkey to go to a hamam. As they stepped inside, a Turkish woman who only spoke Turkish greeted them. Behind her was a sign with a list of prices and services.
After they played a game of charades with the Turkish attendant, they came to an agreement on the price and were led to a small room with two cots and a place to hang their clothes. They were also given a locker where they could store their valuables.
After they changed into their robes, they were led down some steps to a domed room with marble floors, which was much warmer than the entrance area upstairs. The room is dominated by a large, flat, round marble slab (called a göbek taşı) and surrounded by half a dozen small washbasins. A sauna was off to the left.
The bath attendants instructed them to lie down on the marble slab, and they were doused with warm water and scrubbed with a coarse cloth that had the texture of sandpaper. The scrubbing session removes a layer of dead skin. They had a quick rinse and then they were given a combination of washing and massage. After another rinse, they were done. They said they felt cleaner than ever and so relaxed they could barely walk.
A Turkish proverb says it all: “Hamama giren terler.” He who goes into a hamam will sweat -- if you don't like the heat, get out. If it is a once in a lifetime experience, go for the works (e.g., the rub with rough gloves, the lathering and the face and feet massages).
Whether you are a weary traveler or a local wanting a good scrub, you can utilize the water and treatments to relax and unwind from the daily grind and stress of life.
Note: Charlotte McPherson is the author of “Culture Smart: Turkey, 2005.” Please keep your questions and observations coming: I want to ensure this column is a help to you, Today’s Zaman’s readers. Email: c.mcpherson@todayszaman.com
