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May 24, 2012
 
 
 
 
 
 
Columnists 14 February 2009, Saturday 0 0 0 0
KLAUS JURGENS
klaus.jurgens@gmail.com

İstanbul: a political view from the Bosporus

At present, two bridges link the western and eastern shores of İstanbul. We may alternatively refer to them as the left bank and the right bank! "West" and "East" in this context are only used to illustrate a geographical dimension.

When talking about the subject of bridges, the phrase "bridging the gap" springs to mind, implying that a geographical obstacle can easily be overcome by a bridge. Approached from the reverse angle, I would raise the question of whether a bridge -- theoretically speaking -- can create an obstacle. Let me explain!

There was a time when traveling across continents was for adventurers and men of means -- financial means, that is. When Thomas Cook more or less invented the package tour in 1841, things began to change, and over time, traveling became much more accessible. Cook arranged for a daylong excursion by rail starting in Leicester in central England, the first of its kind. Between the past, when traveling was for very few members of the elite, and today, when large segments of society "go as they wish," there was a turn of a century -- not the last, but the previous one (1899 becoming 1900). Back then, going abroad was labeled fashionable, Paris had become accessible by train and boat from London, America was a hot pick, if only for the wrong reasons -- finding work, that is -- and then there was the Orient Express.

Today, reading books or watching movies about these travels by cross-country and cross-border trains transports us back in time when "East" and "West" indeed had many more connotations than their mere geographic dimensions. The Bosporus was where the East started, and for most, it was where the Far East or Asia began.

Since then, the world endured two "World Wars," and then witnessed the Cold War, which was followed by the collapse of the former Soviet empire. A future European Union was born and globalization went from a word confined to dictionaries to becoming an everyday reality. So how come when the arrival of the new millennium was celebrated on Jan. 1, 2000, no one thought about replacing the "Welcome to Asia" signs gracing the ends of both bridges across the Bosporus with something more 21st-century-like? Is there perhaps a political dimension hidden in this artificial divide, because officially the Princes' Islands and Bursa would be in Asia, too, should that sign hold forth? For me, Bodrum and Trabzon are both in Turkey and nowhere else! Turkey is joining the EU, but Asia? I am aware of the fact that I may be putting too much weight on these little road signs, but words and symbols matter!

Now picture this: Come EU accession, a visitor would follow the route of the former Orient Express, only this time by car. Exiting Bulgaria and entering Turkey, he would be greeted by a blue sign with 12 yellow stars with "Türkiye" prominently written in its center. This is the uniform sign welcoming travelers all over the EU. Now, let our imaginary motorist continue on his way to İstanbul and then onto one of the two bridges. Upon arriving at the other side of the Bosporus, the EU sign would tell him "You are leaving the EU" and "Welcome to Asia"; would that still make (geographical or territorial) sense?

I thought about the "Why is the sign still there?" question and wish to raise a few issues here. In present-day Turkey, many commentators and many people talk about a potential danger that the country is going to be divided by the present government. Some argue that supporting regional languages could divide the nation while others fear that certain parts of the country are receiving unjust government funds to prep them for independence. For me, allowing regional customs, including languages, and helping less developed parts of the country reach a level playing field does not lead to separation but to social inclusion!

Other parts of society including past governments -- over many decades -- did nearly nothing to support the Southeast or Northeast. How come in today's Turkey we find a "millionaires' belt" along the coastline from Alanya to Çeşme and widespread poverty in many other regions? How come many Turkish citizens look down on their fellow countrymen and women when they hear that they live "on the Asian side of İstanbul"? If these misperceptions exist here in Turkey, how can we blame foreigners for falling into the same trap? Remember French President Nicolas Sarkozy explaining that Turkey is in Asia Minor, not in Europe? Turkey needs a much more even distribution of its wealth, both old, new and future. My suggestion would be to re-label İstanbul as the "Gateway to Turkey and Beyond." I myself like watching the old movies I mentioned earlier, including those featuring the Orient Express. However, this is reality in the year 2009: The Turkish "fast train -- society and economy" is running toward Brussels!

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