These days travel is not cheap, but it is possible to plan the trip of a lifetime if you do your homework. A lot of Today’s Zaman readers are people who are planning to visit Turkey. A number of people write to me and ask questions about traveling in Turkey. Here are a few:
“I speak only English and Italian; will I have big problems or just ‘normal’ problems?’ Maria in Italy
“I heard the cheapest way of transport in Turkey is the train, would you advise it? Is it slow? Are there any high-speed trains?” Michael in Stuttgart
“I like traveling by bus. How is it in Turkey? Are they safe and clean?” Romer in Romania
“I am planning a trip to Turkey and want to travel around for a month in the summer. Are domestic flights expensive?” Heather in the US
“I’d like to know some things: What’s the cheapest transport there? Train, bus, anything else?” Wanderer
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
-- Mark Twain
Here are a few tips for intercity travel:
Planes
Turkish Airlines (THY) has a good network connecting all of the major cities. Flight times range from one hour for İstanbul to Ankara to two hours from İstanbul to Diyarbakır. Some flights require changing planes in Ankara or İstanbul. You should always travel with your passport. You’ll find prices reasonable. Planes are a smoke-free environment. Normally a drink and a sandwich are served on board.
Some discount airlines operate flights on certain routes, but the schedules are subject to change -- sometimes at short notice.
Buses
The road network is the main means of intercity travel in Turkey. Expressways are limited; you will find mainly divided highways. After planes, buses are the next best way to travel around the country if you have time. It is to the traveler’s advantage that there is competition between private companies on the same routes. You can book a ticket or just turn up at a bus station and hop on, unless you are traveling during a holiday period, in which case you should definitely book ahead of time. Go to the office of the bus company you want -- if you don’t know which to choose then you will be sure to be accosted by men calling out destinations to try to get you to patronize their company.
Travel between İstanbul and Ankara can take as little as five hours. Many buses travel at night (e.g. 20 hours İstanbul to Trabzon, nine hours İstanbul to İzmir). Some bus companies have a better safety record than others: Kamil Koç, Ulusoy and Varan are regarded as the best. They target the wealthier traveler and have some routes with toilets and meals on board. On other routes there will be regular stops at service stations or bus stations for refreshments and for passengers to stretch their legs or have a cigarette (all buses are non-smoking).
Turks trust in God to protect them in intercity travel from the high numbers of accidents on the roads. Passengers will say aloud or under their breath, “Bismillah,” at the start of the journey. A trinket may dangle down from the rear view mirror with the words “Allah Korusun.”
Trains
The train network is very limited and is slow and uncomfortable compared to the five-hour bus trip. Even the İstanbul to Ankara “express” train stops at many locations and takes about nine hours. A high-speed train link between İstanbul and Ankara is being developed, but has already had early setbacks due to accidents.
Ferries
You can get an overnight ferry from İstanbul to İzmir, but it is not recommended as it takes about 12 hours. The fast ferry across the Marmara from İstanbul to Yalova, Marmara Island, Bandirma and other destinations is much better. Travel by a network of these so-called sea buses is being developed.
The experience of travel is not just about obtaining a ticket and getting on the transport. It begins with all the anticipation and ends with the memories -- including losing your luggage, missing the bus or plane, getting lost, eating different kinds of food, meeting the locals and learning about their culture and ways. For some of you it may even mean falling in love!
“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home.”
--James Michener
İyi yolculuklar!
