Everyone thinks Starbucks and Gloria Jean’s are the places to be, but the best coffeehouses in Europe are of Turkish descent. Have you ever visited Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi in the Spice Bazaar or in Kadıköy? If you like coffee, you will want to stand in front of this shop and inhale the aroma of the roasting coffee beans.
What are some of the things that come to mind when you are asked “What is Turkey famous for?” Of course, Turkish carpets! How about Turkish coffee?
Can you imagine that there was a time when coffee was not well-known by the general Turkish populace? I find it difficult to imagine.
Did you know that the first coffee house in İstanbul opened in 1554 in Tahtakale (wooden castle)? Of course, at the time it was known as Taht-el-kale (below the castle), explains Dr. Metin Soytürk in his book, “The Story of Turkish Coffee and Turkish Delight.”
As a very young girl, I loved to smell the coffee when my dad put on a pot -- in our old percolator pot -- on the gas stove. I was fascinated to watch it begin to pop up into the glass lid as the water began to boil. I would watch with my dad as the color changed from watery brown to just the right color. You could tell when it had perked enough by the color and smell. I’m convinced that those are the best types of pots for making coffee. Coffee machines today do not get the water hot enough.
Certainly in Turkey, and most other places, having a cup of coffee goes hand in hand with socializing. I loved to go with my dad to visit my Aunt Margaret. Childless herself, she loved me like her own and had plenty of time and energy to lavish on her favorite niece. Until I became too old for childish things, I would sit on my dad’s knee with them at the table and join in the social time. She made a delicious pineapple upside cake and would serve it with coffee. Of course, my cup was never full. I learned at a young age to drink it black -- no sugar, no cream. It was fun to visit my aunt with my dad, because they would both sit and listen so intently to me. I told them all about school and my friends. I liked the game -- socializing over coffee and a piece of cake with the adults.
When I came to Turkey, I fell in love with Turkish coffee after I learned how to drink it properly; that is, not swallow the last sip! If you do you, get a mouthful of coffee grinds. I am probably not the only Westerner who has done this. I somehow managed to swallow the grind without making a face or letting my hostess know what I’d done. The glass of water your host gives you with the Turkish coffee is not really for washing down the grind, but it worked in my case.
You can find a wide variety of coffee shops alongside the traditional coffee houses. Don’t forget that Ottoman envoys introduced Turkish coffee to European capitals beginning in the mid 1500s.
If you have not visited the Pierre Loti Coffee House in the Eyüp district of İstanbul, you are missing more than a cup of coffee! Although it has changed hands many times over the years, it claims to be the oldest coffee house in Turkey. You may wonder why it is called Pierre Loti. After all, he is not a Turk! Wasn’t he a French poet?
Loti was persuaded by fellow navy officers to publish his diary about his personal experiences in İstanbul. You have probably heard of, or maybe even read, his book, “Aziyad.” The book describes both his love affair with a harem girl and his “exotic” persona. Like so many of us, he loved Turkish culture. No other coffee shop in İstanbul has such rich history to ponder while you sip your Turkish coffee and enjoy the view of the Golden Horn.
Coffee houses have sometimes been more than a place for pleasure and socializing. During the reigns of different sultans, such as Sultan Selim and Murat IV, coffee lovers faced a prohibition on their favorite drink. Coffee houses had become places where people gathered to discuss current affairs and political debates. This posed a problem for those in charge.
Whether at home or out somewhere with friends, coffee is enjoyable.
My dad and aunt listened to me then they would share their problems and thoughts with each other. Sitting around the table sharing coffee and our thoughts helped us bond. Metin Soytürk shares this Turkish proverb:
“The heart seeks neither coffee nor the coffee house
The heart seeks a friend: coffee is just an excuse.”
